1877년 완화군(完和君)의 관례복식(冠禮服飾)에 대한 연구

Abstract

A study conducted on the Coming-of-Age ceremonial costumes of Prince Wanhwa(1868-1880) which was documented in the Records of Prince Wanhwa's Coming-of-Age Ceremony and it has produced the following conclusions. First, the coming-of-age ceremonial costume of a prince consisted a men's robe with a straight collar(Jikryeong). And an official coronet(Osamo) and a men's official dark green robe with a rounded collar (Heukdallyeong) appeared in the first part. A government official's coronet(Bokdu) and an official attire(Gongbok) appeared in the second part, and an official's ceremonial coronet(Yanggwan) and the ceremonial attire(Jobok) occurred in the third part. However, details of the costume items varied according to different periods. Second, after the first appearance the ceremony was conducted in three parts, and higher ranking attire were worn as the ceremony progressed. There were some differences in the specific items worn between the crown prince and prince of the nobility regarding the status rank. Third, Prince Wanhwa wore Jikryeong, a red string waisted cord and ritual shoes. According to the Annals of King Sunjo(純祖), the crown prince wore a nobleman's coat(Dopo) for his first appearance. Therefore, it is necessary that documents were maintained the conservative aspects by recording the nobleman's coat, the Jikryeong. Fourth, Osamo and Heukdalryeong were worn in the first part. An insignia embroidered with an imaginary animal was attached to the Heukdalryeong which was worn together with a horn belt, a headband with plain jade buttons, men's formal winter cap, and black socks whilst holding a fur screen in hand. Fifth, Bokdu, Gongbok and a horn belt were worn in the second part. The sleeves of the Gongbok were very wide at this time and the gussets had slits in the sides which being folded up and fastened to the back like the daily official attires(dalryeong) of the later years. The style of the Gongbok gradually changed into a similar style to the dalryeong of the late Joseon Dynasty. Sixth, Yanggwan, Jobok, black socks and black shoes were worn in the third part. After the 18th century, officials wore navy inner robes instead of white inner robes, and the black shoes were worn after the reign of King Jungjong(中宗). Seventh, items which were not part of the ceremonial costume such as the red official's hat(紫笠), textile hat string, decorative hat strings made of ambers( 明貝纓子), men's winter cap(笠耳掩), and shoes(唐鞋) were prepared together.