고려 말기~조선 전기 금직물(金織物)의 용도와 복식고증의 관계 연구
The Relationship on the Investigated Costume Design with Use of Korean Textile with Golden Thread from Late Goryeo Period to Early Joseon Period
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Textile with golden thread was the most formal type of clothing material, and was used in imperial gifts, in offering, and in the decorative parts of court dress. This study explores the uses and characteristics of Korean textile with golden thread in the early 14th to 16th centuries and to build up the proper contents for historical investigation of costume with textile with golden thread. Goryeo gumseon, janggeum and jikgeum in the 14th century featured the Yuan style of pattern combination mixed with the traditional Chinese and Goryeo weaving style of flat golden thread only in to patterns, and textile with golden thread was used in imperial gifts, tributes to Buddha, sutra pouches, and as a decorative element in the costume of high-ranking people. Gumseon, jikgeum, and jikgeumdanja of Joseon in the 15th century were regarded as imports and luxury goods from Ming and came in to limited use as royal costume accessories, bridal jackets and belts for royal weddings, and gifts between nations. The use of gumseon reached a peak in the early 16th century during King Yeonsan's reign, was developed into a thin, fine silk gauze and ramie with children’s patterns and floral patterns, and was incorporated in insignia patches, seuran, and in the costumes worn by royal concubines. After King Yeonsan was dethroned, the use of gumseon was restricted to shoe decoration, wedding gown, seuran for a royal gift, details of ladies’ jogori, and formal skirt textiles. The use and main characteristics of textile with golden thread eventually changed through the influence of foreign relations and changes in society, and this would be an interesting area for further research.
Abstract
Textile with golden thread was the most formal type of clothing material, and was used in imperial gifts, in offering, and in the decorative parts of court dress. This study explores the uses and characteristics of Korean textile with golden thread in the early 14th to 16th centuries and to build up the proper contents for historical investigation of costume with textile with golden thread. Goryeo gumseon, janggeum and jikgeum in the 14th century featured the Yuan style of pattern combination mixed with the traditional Chinese and Goryeo weaving style of flat golden thread only in to patterns, and textile with golden thread was used in imperial gifts, tributes to Buddha, sutra pouches, and as a decorative element in the costume of high-ranking people. Gumseon, jikgeum, and jikgeumdanja of Joseon in the 15th century were regarded as imports and luxury goods from Ming and came in to limited use as royal costume accessories, bridal jackets and belts for royal weddings, and gifts between nations. The use of gumseon reached a peak in the early 16th century during King Yeonsan's reign, was developed into a thin, fine silk gauze and ramie with children’s patterns and floral patterns, and was incorporated in insignia patches, seuran, and in the costumes worn by royal concubines. After King Yeonsan was dethroned, the use of gumseon was restricted to shoe decoration, wedding gown, seuran for a royal gift, details of ladies’ jogori, and formal skirt textiles. The use and main characteristics of textile with golden thread eventually changed through the influence of foreign relations and changes in society, and this would be an interesting area for further research.
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