궁중 가례용 수식(首飾)의 장잠(長簪)에 관한 연구

Abstract

Susik(首飾), as a grand ceremonial hair style for royal women, had been used in overall Joseon period. Susik for court wedding ceremony was composed of ‘Daeyo(帶要), Susaji(首沙只), Jangjam(長簪), Wonjam(圓簪), Chae(釵)’, and was similar with the court hair style which has been called ‘Daesu(大首)’ Especially Jangjam, the most gorgeous ornaments, had been used differently according to court rank as a symbolical element of Susik. In Garyedogamuigye(嘉禮都監儀軌), of queen or Crown Princess, Oakbatangchilbojangkeumjangjam[玉波湯七寶粧金長簪] decorated with natural gemstone was written down in common. Kinds of ornamental materials for Oakbatangchilbojangkeumjangjam were similar with Jangjam of the Consort of Imperial Prince Yeong, but detailed materials were more various in size and larger in quantity. Before 1602 when the wedding ceremony of Queen In-mok(仁穆王后) were held, various Jangjam like Gachilbojangkeumjangjam(假七寶粧金長簪) and Gachilbojangeundogeumjangjam(假七寶粧銀鍍金長簪) were used together. Gachilbojangkeumjangjam which had been also used for Princess was decorated with artificial gemstone different with Oakbatangchilbojangkeumjangjam, as a meaning of lower thing. And similarly described Jangjam in both Akhakguebeom (樂學軌範) and the portrait of Ha yeon(河演)’s wife, showed correlation between court Susik and Ginyeo(妓女) or noble women’s Susik. Seobokjangjam(鑷玉長簪) and Oakjangjam(玉長簪) what were written in 「Goongjoongbalgi[宮中件記]」 meant Jangjam decorated with gemstone based on openworked jade. And they were almost same with Jangjam of the Consort of Imperial Prince Yeong. So, it seemed that Jangjam style of late Joseon period had been used after 19th century. After analyzing formative characteristic to definitize the correlation between various Jangjam, it is supposed that especially Jangjam of Akhakguebeom had been used as basis for various Jangjam. In detailed way, Jangjam used for high rank were simplified in shape compared to basis form, but decorated more splendidly for dignity. Through the overall results from this study, it is supposed that Susik of late Joseon had inherited the court style which had been used from early Joseon period.