[음식디미방]에 나타난 장계향의 음식관
Jang Gye Hyang's Viewpoint of Food Shown in EumSikDiMiBang
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이 논문은 [음식디미방]에 타나난 장계향(張桂香)의 음식관을 고찰한 글로, [음식디미방]은 1670년경 조선시대 여성이 한글로 저술한 조리서로 최고(最高)의 가치를 지닌 저서이다. 장계향은 퇴계학파인 장흥효(張興孝)의 외동딸로 1598년(선조 31) 경북 안동에서 태어나, 19살 때 경북 영양(英陽)의 석계(石溪) 이시명(李時明)에게 출가하여, 당시 성리학으로 이름난 존재(存齋) 이휘일(李徽逸)과 갈암(葛庵) 이현일(李玄逸)의 어머니로 친가(親家)와 시가(媤家) 모두 성리학적(性理學的) 학풍에 놓여 있었다. 아버지 장흥효는 이황(李滉)의 경(敬) 사상을 계승해, 평생 지경(持敬)의 삶을 살았으며, 이러한 부친의 가르침을 받은 장계향의 삶 또한 ‘지경의 삶’ 그 자체였다. 장계향이 [음식디미방]을 저술한 까닭은, 그가 시집와서 시댁 어른의 입맛을 몰라 곤란했던 당시를 떠올리며, 시댁과 친정, 외가 등에서 체득한 경험을 꼼꼼히 기록으로 남겨 딸과 며느리들이 낭패를 당하지 않도록 하려는 배려의 마음으로 저술한 것이다. 따라서 이 책은, 17세기 안동과 영양지역 사대부가의 ‘음식 만드는 법’ 뿐만 아니라 ‘술 만드는 법’, 음식재료 저장법‘ 등을 광범위하게 수집한 자료이다. [음식디미방]에는 크게 면병류 28항목, 어육류 44항목, 과채류 20항목, 주류 51항목, 초류 3항목 등 다섯 부류로 146항목이나 되며, 밥과 죽에 관련된 항목이 하나도 없는 것이 특이하다. 특히 장계향은 재령이씨(載寧李氏)의 종부로서 수많은 ‘봉제사 접빈객(奉祭祀 接賓客)’의 행사를 수행하였기 때문에 음식디미방에 보이는 음식은 ‘봉제사 접빈객’과 매우 밀접한 관계가 있는 음식들로, [음식디미방] 전체 146개 항목 중 ‘술’과 ‘누룩’에 관한 항목이 51항목이나 되는 것은 ‘술’은 ‘봉제사 접빈객’에 있어 매우 중요한 음식이었다.
Abstract
This thesis looks into Jang Gye Hyang's viewpoint shown in EumSikDiMiBang, which is thought to be the highest valuable food book written in Korean by a woman of Joseon dynasty time in 1672. Jang Gye Hyang (張桂香) was an only daughter of Jang Heung Hyo (張興孝), a Confucian scholar of Toigye School. She was born in Andong, Gyeongbuk in 1598 (the 31st year of the King Seonjo's regime). When she was 19, she married Seokgye (石溪) Lee Si Myeong (李時明) living in Yeongyang, Gyeongbuk, and she made births to Jonjae (存齋) Lee Hwee Yil (李徽逸) and Galam (葛庵) Lee Hyeon Yil (李玄逸) who got themselves good reputation as Neo-Confucian scholars. That is, both her father's family line and father-in-law's family line were all in the stream of Neo-Confucian academic tradition. Her father Jang Heung Hyo lived the life of JiGyeong (持敬: to keep Gyeong steadily) having followed Lee Hwang's thoughts of Gyeong (敬) through all his life. She was taught of such thoughts by her father, so that her life was also said to be ‘the life of JiGyeong’ itself. She wrote EumSikDiMiBang because she wanted to record her experience of foods in detail she got from her husband's home, her childhood home before marriage, her mother's childhood home before marriage and so on remembering how she was in trouble without knowledge of family-in-law's tastes so that her daughter and daughters-in-law should not face failure in making foods. That is, this book was written in Korean with her warm mind for her daughters at both sides all. This book is special especially in the point that it had collected not only ‘the ways of making foods’ but also how to brew alcoholic beverages, how to store and so on widely to put in a book form. This book consists of 146 chapters roughly including 28 for noodles and crepes, 44 for fish and meat, 20 for fruits and vegetable, 51 for liquors and 3 for vinegar dressings, which all can be sorted into 5 categories. This book is unique that it does not deal with any rice and porridge types of food. She was the head family's eldest son's wife of Jaeryeong (載寧: a region of Korea) Lee family who was obligated to carry out a number of such events as family rites and relevant receptions, so that the foods shown in EumSikDiMiBang are very close to the foods for family rites and relevant receptions. Among 146 chapters of EumSikDiMiBang, 51 are relevant to liquors and yeast probably because liquors are a very important issue for noble families who valued family rites and relevant receptions.