송대 음다문화(飮茶文化)와 흑유잔 연구

Abstract

During the Song Dynasty, the drinking of dancha(團茶), which was produced through refined processing, gained popularity. The dancha-drinking culture became the most opulent tea culture in history. Dancha was typically served in black-glazed bowls, crafted in the kilns of Jianzhou(建州). This paper seeks to examine the evolution of these black-glazed bowls against the backdrop of the Song Dynasty’s dancha and tea-drinking culture(飮茶文化), as well as the contemporary documents and literary records regarding tea. The 11th-century reign of Emperor Renzong in the Northern Song Dynasty witnessed significant progress in the development of dancha, including the processing of Chai Yang’s (蔡襄) small dragon-phoenix lump tea(小龍鳳團) and the compilation of his work, “Tea Records”(茶錄). Simultaneously, the production of black-glazed bowls, initially limited to some kilns at Anmisan(庵尾山) in Jian Kiln(建窯), expanded across numerous areas, including Daluhoumenshan(大路後門山), Nohwapyeong(蘆花坪), and Wupiryun(牛皮侖). This led to the formation of a prototype of thick black-glazed bowls with a hare’s fur pattern(兎毫文). The distinctive morphology of this era was characterized by bowls having a low body and a widely flared rim. These shapes were probably tailored to accommodate the ‘Tea Spoon’(茶匙), a tool used for whisking tea during the 11th century. During the reign of Emperor Huizong in the 12th century, the ‘Tea Brush’(茶筅) began to be used for whisking tea. Consequently, the black-glazed bowls of the 12th century were taller and had greater depth compared to those of the 11th century. The widely flared rims, which were previously common features, became narrower to prevent the spilling of tea during the whisking process, and a concave indentation, referred to as a “belly button”(束口), appeared just below the rim. Moreover, many tea bowls were produced in accordance with the whisking method and the ideal characteristics of a tea bowl specified in “Daguan Tea Theory”(大觀茶論), a book authored by Huizong. This included tea bowls with the inscription ‘Gong-eo‧Jin-jan’(貢 御‧進盞), which were bowls characterized by a broad bottom or a wide diameter at the foot. As the Northern Song Dynasty was replaced by the Southern Song Dynasty towards the end of the 12th century, the hitherto consistent evolution of dancha began to stagnate. It seems that this stagnation also influenced the design of the black-glazed bowls, as no significant changes were observed in their shape from the Southern Song Dynasty through to the Yuan Dynasty. The defining features of this period include a shape with a steep diagonal line, a slightly upright rim forming the belly button, and a sense of depth. The designs are believed to have changed in accordance with the simplified whisked tea method, which became simpler compared to the previous period (Northern Song Dynasty). Additionally, this paper explored the whisking tea method which is whisked in a large bowl(大碗), bal(鉢) or boon(盆) then served evenly into smaller cups using a ladle(杓). This method may probably prove the use of vessels that are predominantly produced in sizes that are significantly larger (when tea is whisked in a large bowl) or smaller (when tea is served in smaller cups) than the average.