나주 임씨 연(1587~1654) 분묘 출토 포류에 관한 연구

Abstract

This study is about ‘Po’s in 17th century which excavated from grave of Naju Lim-Yeon. The number of excavated ‘Po’s were not many but various types were excavated such as so-chang-eui, joong-chi-mak, bang-ryung, dan-ryung, 과두 and 주의. Most of costumes were made of silk but some were made of cotton and printed silk. Every costumes were padded clothes except dan-ryung which is unlined clothes and layered clothes which were made of Jik-ryung. Po of Naju Lim were made in middle period of Joseon Danasty. For the collar, kal-kit, mok-pan-kit, and dang-co-kit were used and straight-bearea and diagonal-bearea were used for the sleeve. Straight bodice and diagonal bodice were used for the bodice. Most of joong-chi-mak of the middle period of Joseon Dynasty used kal-kit but his excavated costumes used dang-ko-kit so it can be inferred that he lived in the early of Late Joseon period. Naju Lim’s danryung is layered with single-layered jik-ryung which is an inner clothe and single-layered dan-ryung which is outer clothe. Dan-ryung shows similar aspects as other excavated dan-ryung of same period. Bang-ryung is one kind of men’s vest. It has double-layered kit and jointed together and its sleeves are connected to the bodice without joint and don’t have ba-dae, dut-dan, moo, and a gusset. For joong-chi-mak, gusset and bodice were cut as one unit and bodice and moo were also cut as one unit and then they were connected together. The composition is cotton-stuffed quilting and broad stitching was used as sewing method. Stitch of coat string is headed down side unlike today. Most of unlined clothes, lined clothes, and padded clothes used broad stitching.