나주 임씨 연(1587~1654) 출토복식의 형태적 특징과 바느질법

Abstract

The grave belongs to Naju Lim-Yeon and made in 17th century which is Middle period of Joseon Dynasty. Cheogori(저고리), single-layered chogori(적삼), pants(바지), joongchimak(중치막), double-danryung(겹단령), sochangeui(소창의), bangryung(방령), mang-gun(망건) and tang-gun(탕건) were excavated from the grave. Total number of excavated relics are 68. Cheogori’s outer collar used mokpankit and dangkokit and inner collar used half-visible mokpankit. Straight bodice and diagonal bodice were both used for bodice and both straight-bearea and diagonal-bearea were used for the inseam of the sleeve. Triangle gusset and curved gusset were used for gusset. Pants is sapok-pants. Characteristic of 17th century is shown in shape of sleeve and gusset of sochangeui and joongchimak. Most of collar’s shape of sochangeui and joongchimak in these period are kalkit but this excavated sochangeui used dangkokit. Excavated danryung is double danryung which connects unlined danryung and unlined jikryung. Jikryung used dangkokit so it can be said that it was unlined clothes. Front length(119cm) of bangryung is longer than back length(89cm) and it used patterned-silk for upper and silk for lining. Pattern is equally placed in 9 places of costume. Bangryung has side slit and back slit and its sleeve length is 6cm which is very short for sleeve length. Broad-stitching is mostly used because most of costume were padded clothes or quilted clothes and some seam direction was in opposite direction of modern costume. Selvage were just sewed to each other and some unlined clothes used french seam. Sewing of the shroud was not elaborated. Some frayed ends were not double-stitched and slim margin remained intact.