출토 창의류의 형태적 특징과 구성에 관한 연구－전남지역 출토 창의류를 중심으로－

Abstract

Most of the Changui excavated from Jonnam area was excavated from the 16th to the middle and late period of 17th centuries tombs. Sochangui, Jungchimak, Deachangui were largely excavated. Sub structure, length of the clothes, slit ratio, and shape of the sleeves, which are characteristics of the clothes from 16th to 17th centuries, were well shown. Sochangui and Deachangui were quilted with cotton and Deachangui were double layered. The material was mostly silk and there were clothes made of patterned silk[문능&문주], and, cotton cloth[무명]. It was similar to other regions’ material. The clothing features characteristic of relics were that collars were mostly Kal-git(칼깃). There were only two Dangko-git(당코깃). Protruding Mokpan- git(목판깃) were used for inner collars. Sochangui had staight sleeve while Jungchimak had beanpod-shaped sleeve[콩깍지형 광수] which have a small difference of armhole and cuff and sleeve width was wide. There were Jungchimak and Deachangui which had separated sleeves. Most of outer collar was Kal-git(칼깃) and inner collar was protruding Mokpan-git(목판깃). Structure of Sub(섶) was a shape with additional small Sub. Most of them were double Sub with a small piece attached to the end of the Sub and is different from the form of double Sub in the middle of Chosun dynasty. The excavated clothes of the late 17th century, the latest period of the excavation, had triangle gusset[삼각무] and no Dang(당). Therefore, it can be confirmed that the triangle gusset was used in the late Chosun dynasty.