조선 후기 양념김치의 등장과 확산

Abstract

This paper examines the formation and spread of kimchi seasoning by reviewing the evolution of kimchi recipes in cookbooks from the Joseon Dynasty. To do so, it focuses on the ingredients and changes in seasoning from the 15th to the 19th century, specifically in cucumber, eggplant, and radish-based kimchi (hereafter referred to as 茄苽菁). It also explores the changes in kimchi preparation methods according to the use of seasoning, as well as the shifts in perception that followed. The distinctive feature of kimchi up until the 17th century is the clear seasonal difference in its preparation: soy sauce was used in the summer and brine in the winter. At that time, the use of seasoning in kimchi was very limited, as the emphasis was more on preservation than on flavoring. From the 18th century, two major changes in kimchi preparation emerged. First, spiced seasonings, which had previously only been used for kimchi made with brine, began to be used in radish kimchi as well. This was due to advancements in salting techniques (controlling brine concentration) for better preservation, which occurred alongside changes in seasoning practices (the spread of seasoned kimchi). Second, soy sauce-based kimchi that used spiced seasonings became divided into two forms: one that evolved into cooked vegetables for maximum flavor (美食), and another that remained in the kimchi category as a raw vegetable dish (broth-based kimchi). The introduction of seasoned brining marked a transformation in the kimchi-making process. Previously, the ingredients and season-ings were placed together and fermented immediately (direct brining method). This shifted to a two-step process (secondary brining method) where the vegetables were first salted, dehydrated, and then soaked in seasonings for further fermentation. In the 19th century, various side ingredients such as salted seafood, meats, and seafood were widely used. The method of mixing multiple ingredients, centered around radish, became the dominant way of making kimchi. Additionally, the use of complex seasonings allowed for the flexibility to make kimchi from any raw ingredient with the same seasoning and method. This led to the establishment of kimchi as a unique fermented food of Joseon, one that required no cooking, with natural fermentation occurring during the preparation stage, allowing for direct consumption. The complex seasonings that emerged in the late Joseon period made it possible to turn any vegetable into kimchi. This contributed to the expansion of kimchi in terms of form, color, taste, and variety greatly increasing the diversity of kimchi across different regions, social classes, and seasons.