개항기 외국인의 기록과 삽화를 통해 본 우리의 복식문화

Abstract

This paper aims at observing the foreign cognition of the Korean physical condition and clothing & ornamental culture through the foreign record and illustration who have visited Korea in the opening time of a port, and rediscovering the beauty of our clothing & ornamental culture. Also, it is expected to find what is our clothing and ornamental culture which was misjudged by the foreigners in that course, and to be the motive informing it correctly. The initial record of our clothing & ornamental culture in the opening time of a port is the navigating time of the MacLeord and of Basil in 1816. Later, the foreigner which have the visited Joseon visited Netherland, England, U.S.A., France, Russia, Republic of Hungary, including Spain, and their profession is varied of diplomatic, scholar, traveler, doctor, soldier, painter, missioner, etc. Nevertheless, our clothing and ornamental culture which they felt beautiful greatly made a general classification of hat and white dress, and cloth with stripes of many colors. First, the foreigners in the opening time of a port called Korea the ‘country of hat’. This means that they didn’t stop to exclaim of the men’s traditional cylindrical Korean hat (gat)and rain cover for a hat(galmo) but also the women’s hat, and to mention the hat(chobawui), the long silk tail attached to a women’s cap(ayam) and fur-lined hood (nambawul) as to have in Joseon. Second, the foreigners in the opening time of a port called our dress the ‘white wave’. The feeling of white color is said the same as the banquet of timber according to the extent of textile and fulling cloth by pounding, laundry from the bright white color as white gem to crude white color. Third, the foreigners in the opening time of a port called our clothing & ornamental culture ‘festival of cloth with stripes of many colors(sackdong)’. Specially, cloth with stripes of many colors and belting, breast-tie, and pocket which is of vary color in harmony with white color, and is monotonous & insipid is said to give our dress the vigor and the same feeling as festival. Besides, the foreigners in the opening time of a port evaluated that the hat made the height bigger in harmony with the high hat, the characteristics of which our clothing and ornamental culture have, and it made the Koreans more attractive than the Chinese and Japanese overcoming the physical condition of Koreans with luxury and vigor so that tassel & cloth with stripes of many colors which decorated women’s hat are not felt the clothing frame. However our clothing and ornamental culture can be overlooked the foreigner has misjudged. The wanting part to recognize newly with the effort that informs the world our dress is the point of which are our white clothing are recognized mourning clothes was wanting the understanding of frame of our clothing; and was misunderstood the origin of high boots.