A Rhizome-Based Approach to Fashion Design Processes: Proposing a Non-linear, Networked Generative Model
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Contemporary fashion design increasingly displays non-linear, multi-layered, and generative characteristics that cannot be fully captured by conventional stage-based process models. Although existing fashion design research has largely relied on sequential frameworks moving from research to ideation and production, actual creative practice frequently involves simultaneity, recursion, failure, and recombination. This study reconceptualizes the fashion design process through the rhizome theory proposed by Gilles Deleuze and Félix Guattari to provide a more precise theoretical explanation of these non-linear dynamics.The study first examines the philosophical foundations of rhizomatic thinking and generative design cognition, and then reformulates the six principles of the rhizome—connectivity, heterogeneity, multiplicity, asignifying rupture, mapping, and decalcomania—as process-oriented analytical variables. Based on this framework, qualitative case analyses are conducted on the design practices of Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Iris van Herpen, and Craig Green, whose works exemplify experimental, non-normative, and generative creative structures.The analysis demonstrates that contemporary fashion design functions as a reticular generative system in which inspiration, concept development, formal experimentation, and technological implementation occur simultaneously and interact recursively. On the basis of these findings, this study proposes a rhizome-based fashion design process model consisting of four interconnected generative domains: rhizomatic inspiration, conceptual branching, experimental combination and variation, and provisional re-territorialization.By framing fashion design as a non-hierarchical, networked, and continuously evolving process, this research offers a theoretically grounded alternative to linear models and provides analytical and pedagogical implications for contemporary fashion practice, including digital and AI-driven creative environments.
Abstract
Contemporary fashion design increasingly displays non-linear, multi-layered, and generative characteristics that cannot be fully captured by conventional stage-based process models. Although existing fashion design research has largely relied on sequential frameworks moving from research to ideation and production, actual creative practice frequently involves simultaneity, recursion, failure, and recombination. This study reconceptualizes the fashion design process through the rhizome theory proposed by Gilles Deleuze and Félix Guattari to provide a more precise theoretical explanation of these non-linear dynamics.The study first examines the philosophical foundations of rhizomatic thinking and generative design cognition, and then reformulates the six principles of the rhizome—connectivity, heterogeneity, multiplicity, asignifying rupture, mapping, and decalcomania—as process-oriented analytical variables. Based on this framework, qualitative case analyses are conducted on the design practices of Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Iris van Herpen, and Craig Green, whose works exemplify experimental, non-normative, and generative creative structures.The analysis demonstrates that contemporary fashion design functions as a reticular generative system in which inspiration, concept development, formal experimentation, and technological implementation occur simultaneously and interact recursively. On the basis of these findings, this study proposes a rhizome-based fashion design process model consisting of four interconnected generative domains: rhizomatic inspiration, conceptual branching, experimental combination and variation, and provisional re-territorialization.By framing fashion design as a non-hierarchical, networked, and continuously evolving process, this research offers a theoretically grounded alternative to linear models and provides analytical and pedagogical implications for contemporary fashion practice, including digital and AI-driven creative environments.