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현대패션디자인에 나타난 비표상성

Non-Representation Expressed in Contemporary Fashion Design

임민정
한국의상디자인학회 (Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association)|2023.02|한국의상디자인학회지 (Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association)|제25권 제1호|pp. 153-168|DOI 10.30751/kfcda.2023.25.1.153

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참고문헌

키워드

표현들뢰즈expressionGilles Deleuze패션 디자인차이와 반복fashion design비표상성non-representationDifference and Repetition
주제분류의상

초록

Non-representation creates difference and change that can be used as a creative design method that satisfies contradictory requirements for similarity and differentiation. This study drew upon the characteristics of the concept of non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture, in which Gilles Deleuze’s philosophical thinking was reflected, and analyzed the non-representation depicted in contemporary fashion. The non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture is as follows. Non-representation of delaying becoming focuses on reverting to preexisting objects and redefining traditional meaning, thereby delaying the representation of latent meaning. Non-representation of non-becoming removes existing values and typical forms and expresses amorphousness. Non-representation of becoming by repetition or reiteration realizes the difference caused by the passage of time by repeating or overlapping shapes. Non-representation of becoming expresses the transformation of space by flowing through time rather than by actual movement. Non-representation in contemporary fashion shows the following expression characteristics. First, the non-representation of deferring becoming deconstructs the traditional values and forms of clothing and expresses designs by displacement or juxtaposition. Second, the non-representation of non-becoming is expressed concepts unrelated to the body and focus upon amorphous objects that do not become concretized forms. Third, generative non-representation by repetition and overlap expresses the possibility of change by overlapping clothing items or details expressed by repeating segmented objects. Fourth, generative non-representation by movement reproduces the meaning of space and time by moving the shape of the clothing or visually changing the surface of the material of clothing. As a result of the study, the non-representation shown in contemporary fashion aims for versatility to conform to social changes. This study provides new insight into the fashion design method by increasing the understanding of the cocnept of non-representation and showing its potential.

Abstract

Non-representation creates difference and change that can be used as a creative design method that satisfies contradictory requirements for similarity and differentiation. This study drew upon the characteristics of the concept of non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture, in which Gilles Deleuze’s philosophical thinking was reflected, and analyzed the non-representation depicted in contemporary fashion. The non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture is as follows. Non-representation of delaying becoming focuses on reverting to preexisting objects and redefining traditional meaning, thereby delaying the representation of latent meaning. Non-representation of non-becoming removes existing values and typical forms and expresses amorphousness. Non-representation of becoming by repetition or reiteration realizes the difference caused by the passage of time by repeating or overlapping shapes. Non-representation of becoming expresses the transformation of space by flowing through time rather than by actual movement. Non-representation in contemporary fashion shows the following expression characteristics. First, the non-representation of deferring becoming deconstructs the traditional values and forms of clothing and expresses designs by displacement or juxtaposition. Second, the non-representation of non-becoming is expressed concepts unrelated to the body and focus upon amorphous objects that do not become concretized forms. Third, generative non-representation by repetition and overlap expresses the possibility of change by overlapping clothing items or details expressed by repeating segmented objects. Fourth, generative non-representation by movement reproduces the meaning of space and time by moving the shape of the clothing or visually changing the surface of the material of clothing. As a result of the study, the non-representation shown in contemporary fashion aims for versatility to conform to social changes. This study provides new insight into the fashion design method by increasing the understanding of the cocnept of non-representation and showing its potential.

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