음식은 어떻게 문화가 되는가(1) ― 『闖關東』의 경우

Abstract

In this theses I tried to review dishes seen in Chinese TV drama show Chuangguandong(闖關東) aired in 2007 in the light of Lucai(魯菜). This approach may serve as a mirror toward Chinese Korean diaspora, Shangdong cuisine and Zhajiangmian(炸醬麵), providing them with a new way to find their meaning in a novel perspective. The main subject of this analysis is Chinese scallion and Dalumian(打鹵麵) seen in the drama. Firstly, with the quality of cold-endurance and the taste that goes well with common greasy dishes in cold parts of China, scallion has played a significant role in the whole Lucai(魯菜), along with Chinese white liquor. The use and its cultural connotation of Chinese scallion is interwoven throughout Lucai(魯菜) under the surface. And the show has succeeded showing its importance in Lucai(魯菜), which is recognized as the best among eight different styles of Chinese cuisine, in a very subtle, indirect way. Secondly, In the drama, 龜田一郞 is depicted as a tragic character who ends up committing suicide, having suffered from severe identity problem between Japanese biological parents and parents-in-law from Shandong province, while the Sino-Japanese War was taking place. Shandong Dalumian(打鹵麵) can be viewed as ethnographic symbol for ups and downs of young 龜田一郞's personal history. What makes it more interesting is that Shandong Dalumian(打鹵麵) is the origin of all varies of Chinese Ramen in Japanese cuisine, where it is gaining huge popularity in Japan nowadays. Here I tried to trace back the route of noodle cuisine that once originates from China and then ends up localizing in Japanese by cross-reviewing history of Japanese cuisine and characteristics of Chinese noodle. This approach may also serve as a key factor for seeking the root of Zhajiangmian(炸醬麵), an iconic dish in modern cuisine history of Korea.