본문 바로가기
KERD
논문KCI 등재

중국 민국시대(1912년-1949년)에 나타난 치파오 문양에 관한 연구 - 경파이 치파오와 해파이 치파오의 문양 비교를 중심으로 -

The Research Regarding Cheong-Sam Pattern of Fabric Design in the Period of the Republic of China(1912-1949)- Comparison Between Jing Pai and Hai Pai -

0

조회

0

다운로드

5

인용

0

참고문헌

키워드

주제분류의상

초록

Clothes show not just the different social status of people, but the ideology and value of former society through pattern, colour, materials, shapes, etc. The purpose of this article is to fill the academic blank of this part by researching the pattern of fabric design in Jing Pai(Beiing style) and Hai Pai(Shanghai style) cheong-sam during the period of the Republic of China. The contrastive analysis of regional pattern between Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam expect to provide the theoretical basis for the former fashion designers and scholars. There are three approaches in the article: Data collection method, comparison method and Combining theory with practice method as film. Regarding components of pattern, both Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam have mostly single or composite pattern like plants. Further the most of Jing Pai cheong-sam pattern is traditional flower pattern. But Haipai cheong-sam patterns have some western flower pattern. Beside that, it have some geometry pattern. Regarding arrangement of the pattern, both cheong-sams have scattered dot style, the border style, and pictures style. But continuous type of Jing Pai cheong-sam is less while Hai Pai cheong-sam is the most. Comparing Jing Pai cheong-sam color of patterns in“Moment in Peking” is unadorned and types are simple as chinese traditional clothes; However, “In the Mood for Love” introduces us various material colors, new types of patterns and extraneous characteristic geometry patterns of Hai Pai cheong-sam. Generally speaking, the main characteristic of Jing Pai cheong-sam is traditional and conservatism. It keeps Chinese traditional pattern and culture to the most extent. However, Hai Pai cheong-sam are confluent and open with absorbed external culture and techniques which are endowed new artistic color.

Abstract

Clothes show not just the different social status of people, but the ideology and value of former society through pattern, colour, materials, shapes, etc. The purpose of this article is to fill the academic blank of this part by researching the pattern of fabric design in Jing Pai(Beiing style) and Hai Pai(Shanghai style) cheong-sam during the period of the Republic of China. The contrastive analysis of regional pattern between Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam expect to provide the theoretical basis for the former fashion designers and scholars. There are three approaches in the article: Data collection method, comparison method and Combining theory with practice method as film. Regarding components of pattern, both Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam have mostly single or composite pattern like plants. Further the most of Jing Pai cheong-sam pattern is traditional flower pattern. But Haipai cheong-sam patterns have some western flower pattern. Beside that, it have some geometry pattern. Regarding arrangement of the pattern, both cheong-sams have scattered dot style, the border style, and pictures style. But continuous type of Jing Pai cheong-sam is less while Hai Pai cheong-sam is the most. Comparing Jing Pai cheong-sam color of patterns in“Moment in Peking” is unadorned and types are simple as chinese traditional clothes; However, “In the Mood for Love” introduces us various material colors, new types of patterns and extraneous characteristic geometry patterns of Hai Pai cheong-sam. Generally speaking, the main characteristic of Jing Pai cheong-sam is traditional and conservatism. It keeps Chinese traditional pattern and culture to the most extent. However, Hai Pai cheong-sam are confluent and open with absorbed external culture and techniques which are endowed new artistic color.

참고문헌 (33)

  1. 김재임, "중국의 모란문양 연구", 복식, 44, pp.57~75 (1999)
  2. 손개려, "치파오의 미-민국시대 여성논리와 치파오", 석사, pp.2011
  3. 송지성, "중국 전통문양과 브랜드아이덴티티의 연관성에 관한 연구", 한국디자인문화학회지, 17(2), pp.261~272 (2011), 한국디자인문화학회
  4. 송혜련, "한국 꽃담의 모티브를 응용한 패션디자인 개발 - 꽃문양 중심으로 -", 한국패션디자인학회지, 10(1), pp.41~56 (2010), 한국패션디자인학회
  5. 오부기, "1920년-1930년대 중국 京津지역과 上海지역의 여성 치파오 디자인연구", 석사, pp.2011
  6. 우진화, "민국치파오. 중국", 석사, pp.2009
  7. 유영, "치파오(Chi-pao) 변천 과정을 통해 본 현대 패션 치파오 디자인 연구", 석사, 의류학과 패션디자인전공, pp.2012
  8. 유상, "현대 패션 디자인에 나타난 치파오 스타일의 미적특성", 석사, 의류학, pp.2010
  9. 유현정, "한국ᆞ중국ᆞ일본 전통복식에 나타난 문양의 조형적 특성과 조형미", 한국의상디자인학회지, 12(2), pp.107~117 (2010), 한국의상디자인학회
  10. 왕탁졸, "1949년 이후 중국 여성복 변화와 디자인 특성 -20대 상하이(上海)여성을 중심으로-", 한국의상디자인학회지, 13(4), pp.15~28 (2011), 한국의상디자인학회
  11. 이연순, "중국 원대 청화목단당초문합(靑花牡丹唐草汶盒)의 모란문양을 활용한 텍스타일 디자인 제안에 관한 연구", 한국의상디자인학회지, 12(1), pp.1~10 (2010), 한국의상디자인학회
  12. 장현주, "조선시대 직물에 나타난 동물문양의 유형과 특성", 복식, 55(5), pp.65~77 (2005), 한국복식학회
  13. 정지숙, "현대 패션디자인에 나타난 중국풍에 관한 연구 : 2000년 이후 해외 컬렉션에 나타난 치파오의 응용을 중심으로", 석사, 복식디자인, pp.2006
  14. 최연, "현대 치파오의 미학적 분석 : 1920년대~1940년대의 상해지방 치파오를 중심으로", 석사, 의상, pp.2007
  15. 호위, "Modern Meaning of Han Chinese Clothing(漢服)", 한국의상디자인학회지, 11(1), pp.99~109 (2009), 한국의상디자인학회
  16. 張穎, "海派文化概論" (2008), 上海人民出版社
  17. 李倫新, "海派文化與國際影響力" (2006), 上海大學出版社
  18. 林家治, "民國商業美術史" (2008), 上海人民出版社
  19. 張競瓊, "西服東漸" (2002), 安徽美術出版社
  20. 周錫保, "中國古代服裝曆史" (1984), 中國戲劇出版
  21. 回顧, "中國絲綢紋樣史" (1990), 黑龍江美術出版社
  22. 城 壹夫著, "西方染織紋樣史" (2001), 中國紡織出版社
  23. 王莊穆, "民國絲綢史" (1995), 中國紡織出版社
  24. 袁傑英, "中國旗袍" (2000), 中國紡織出版社
  25. 總編委會, "中國大百科全書" (2009), 中國大百科全書出版社
  26. 楊丹偉, "論南京臨時政府的合法性" (1999), 江蘇社會科學
  27. 華梅, "中國近現代服裝史" (2008), 中國紡織出版社
  28. 張愛玲, "中國現代服裝史上的三次對外交流" (2000), 紡織學院
  29. 包铭新, "中国旗袍" (1998), 上海文化出版社
  30. 劉志琴, "近代中國社會文化變遷錄" (1998), 杭州浙江人民出版社
  31. 趙慶偉, "中國社會時尚流變" (1999), 湖北教育出版社
  32. 左旭初, "中國近代商標史" (2003), 上海學林出版社
  33. 陶百川, "上海人的衣", 중국민국일보(民國日報), 2~ (1982)

관련 논문AI추천

이 간행물의 다른 논문 (14건)