중국 TV드라마 <상해탄(上海滩)>과 <신상해탄(新上海滩)>의 치파오 디자인 비교 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, andhairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TVDrama <Shanghai Beach> set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and <Shanghai Bund>remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were asfollows. First, in <Shanghai Beach> televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristicsof Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by aroomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors,simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist andpermanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. Onthe other hand, in <Shanghai Bund> televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that wasvery popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tightsilhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changedfrom bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while <Shanghai Beach> had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai PaiQipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, <Shanghai Bund> used Hai PaiQipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, <Shanghai Bund>demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studyingand reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function aslanguage and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipaowith characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that <Shanghai Bund> was more advancedthan <Shanghai Beach> filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provideuseful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.