일본 고소데(小袖)에 나타난 미적 특성

Abstract

This study focused on the ‘Japanese taste’ affecting the modern fashion, examined theformativeness of kosode, which is the basis of such phenomenon, and then drew the estheticalcharacteristics inherited in kosode. The scope of this study covered from the Edo period whenthe unique native culture of Japan was formed through before the Meiji period, the time beforethe inflow of Western civilization to Japan. The research method included the inspection of thehistorical background of the Edo period through the studied literature and specialty publicationsof inside and outside Korea along with the historical research of kosode’s esthetical features, thetraditional clothing of Japan, by focusing on the kosode appearing in the Bijinga from Ukiyo-e,which was the genre painting of those days. The Edo period, which is included in the modernages, is considered as the time when the intrinsic Japanese culture was enlightened, and kosodethat was once underclothing of aristocrats transformed as the outer clothing due to the changein the government. Kosode that became outer clothing was appeared in diverse formats resultedfrom the development of weaving and dyeing techniques at that time, and the chonins who weremerchants and industrialists even helped to make kosode as outer clothing. Such kosodebecame the basis of kimono in present days. Meanwhile, the change in the design compositiontransformed the function of obi, from its functional characteristic into a decorative feature. Astime passed to the end of the period, the extravagance of chonins caused the issuance of theprohibition order for luxury activities, and the chonins reflected the aesthetic consciousness of Ikithat aroused from licensed quarters to kosode. The aesthetic consciousness of Iki was theunique Japanese aesthetic sense of ordinary people, which became the representative sense ofbeauty in Japan today. Based on such backgrounds, the study on kosode’s esthetical featuresconcluded its esthetical features in simplicity, openness, duality, and sensuality. Kosode, the traditional Japanese clothing, maintained nature-based open and simple formation,and it can be considered as the unique piece of work that was made in compliance with thehistorical background.