무위의 포즈와 응시의 갈망—19세기 영국 댄디의 사회학
Pose of Idleness and Longing for Gaze: The Sociology of Nineteenth-Century Dandy in England
0
조회
0
다운로드
0
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
This paper examines the social phenomena of dandy in nineteenth century England and aims to open a new perspective on dandyism. A dandy has been identified as an upper class young man who dedicated himself to improving his appearance and dandyism has been criticized as the philosophy of idleness. This paper argues that a dandy should not be regarded merely as a purely ornamental existence and dandyism not as a principle of displaying vanity. A dandy has to be repositioned as a resister against the reign of the bourgeois respectability and dandyism redefined as an opposition to the middle class ideology by the aristocracy. Nineteenth-Century England was dominated by the middle class ideology founded on the work ethics which stressed productive labor and on the gender norms which highly valued utilitarian masculinity. A dandy rejected the value of hard work by practicing the principle of idleness and subverted the gender ideology through making himself a spectacle and desiring other’s gazes. In dreaming of a return to the old system in which class hierarchy had been stable, dandyism was a regressive and anachronistic movement and doomed to failure.
Abstract
This paper examines the social phenomena of dandy in nineteenth century England and aims to open a new perspective on dandyism. A dandy has been identified as an upper class young man who dedicated himself to improving his appearance and dandyism has been criticized as the philosophy of idleness. This paper argues that a dandy should not be regarded merely as a purely ornamental existence and dandyism not as a principle of displaying vanity. A dandy has to be repositioned as a resister against the reign of the bourgeois respectability and dandyism redefined as an opposition to the middle class ideology by the aristocracy. Nineteenth-Century England was dominated by the middle class ideology founded on the work ethics which stressed productive labor and on the gender norms which highly valued utilitarian masculinity. A dandy rejected the value of hard work by practicing the principle of idleness and subverted the gender ideology through making himself a spectacle and desiring other’s gazes. In dreaming of a return to the old system in which class hierarchy had been stable, dandyism was a regressive and anachronistic movement and doomed to failure.
참고문헌 (36)
- 계정민, "『황폐한 집』에서의 과도기적 추리서사—버킷의 재현을 중심으로", 영어영문학21, 28(2), pp.27~43 (2015), 21세기영어영문학회[DOI]
- Adburgham, Alison, "Silver-Frok Society: Fashionable Life and Literature from 1814 to 1840" (1983), Constable
- Bailey, Peter, "‘A Mingled Mass of Perfectly Legitimate Pleasures’ : The Victorian Middle Class and the Problem of Leisure", Victorian Studies, 21, pp.7~28 (1977)
- Bradford, Sarah, "Disraeli" (1982), Stein and Day
- Bronski, Michael, "Culture Clash: The Making of Gay Sensibility" (1999), South End
- Bulwer-Lytton, Edward, "Pelham; or the Adventures of a Gentleman" (1972), U of Nebraska P
- Carlyle, Thomas, "Sartor Resartus" (1937), Odyssey
- d’Aurevilly, Jules Barbey, "Dandyism" (1988), PAJ
- Disraeli, Benjamin, "Vivian Grey" (1881), Longmans
- Disraeli, Benjamin, "The Young Duke" (1881), Longmans
- "The English Gentleman: His Principles, His Feelings, His Manners, His Pursuits" (1849), George Bell
- Feldman, Jessica, "Gender on the Divide: The Dandy in Modernist Literature" (1993), Cornell UP
- Gore, Catherine, "Cecil, or the Adventures of a Coxcomb" (1845), Bentley
- Hazlitt, William, "The Dandy School", The Examiner (November 18, 1827), 152~153 (1827)
- Hazlitt, William, "The Complete Works of William Hazlitt Vol. 8", pp.248~255 (1930), Dent
- Hollander, Anne, "Sex and Suits: The Evolution of Dress" (1995), Kodansa
- Hughes, Clair, "Dressed in Fiction" (2006), Berg
- Houghton, Walter E., "Victorian Frame of Mind 1830-1870" (1963), Yale UP
- Jesse, William, "Beau Brummell. 2 vols" (1844), Grolier Society
- Lister, Thomas Henry, "Granby. 3 vols" (1826), Colburn
- Lister, Thomas Henry, "Herbert Lacy. 3 vols" (1828), Colburn
- Maginn, William, "Mr. Edwad Lytton Bulwer’s Novels; and Remarks on Novel-Writing", Fraser’s Magazine 1 (1830), 314~315 (1830)
- Meynell, Wilfred, "The Man Disraeli" (1927), Hutchinson
- Moers, Ellen, "The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm" (1978), U of Nebraska P
- Perekins, S. H., "The Middle Classes in Great Britain", Christian Examiner, 48, pp.266~280 (1850)
- Ribeiro, Aileen, "The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France, 1750-1820" (1995), Yale UP
- Sedgwick, Eve Kosofsky, "Between Men: English Literature and Male Homosocial Desire" (1985), Columbia UP
- Shannon, Brent, "The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860-1914" (2006), Ohio UP
- Shuttleworth, Sally, "Rewriting the Victorians: Theory, History, and the Politics of Gender", pp.31~51 (1992), Routledge
- Simmel, Georg, "The Rise of Fashion: A Reader", pp.289~309 (2004), U of Minnesota P
- Spacks, Patricia Meyer, "Boredom: The Literary History of a State of Mind" (1995), U of Chicago P
- Summer, Charles, "Memoir and Letters of Charles Summer. 2 vols" (1877), Robert Brothers
- Sussman, Herbert, "Victorian Masculinities: Manhood and Masculine Poetics in Early Victorian Literature and Art" (1995), Cambridge UP
- Wahrman, Dror, "Imagining the Middle Class: The Political Representation of Class in Britain, c. 1780-1840" (1995), Cambridge UP
- Ward, Robert Plumer, "Tremaine; or, The Man of Refinement. 3 vols" (1825), Colburn
- White, Charles, "Almack’s Revisited. 3 vols" (1828), Saunders & Oatley