의궤를 통해 본 궁중 검기무 복식

Abstract

This paper examines the types, changes, and characteristics of the costumes for the royal sword dance, geomgi-mu (劍器舞), in the late Joseon Dynasty, through a study of historical sources, including folding screens, paintings, and literature from the era, with a special focus on the 12 uigwe that recorded this dance. The Royal Sword Dance was a popular dance among people in the 17th century after King Sukjong adopted it as a royal dance. Initially, it was introduced to the court simply as gum-mu (literally “sword dance”) and recorded using that name in the Wonhaeng eulmyo jeongri uigwe, but, from the Gichuk jinchan uigwe on, the name was officially changed to gumgi-mu and practiced as part of royal ceremonies. Although there are some differences among the uigwe, most of the records concerning gumgi-mu have been found and confirmed in the Jeongjaedo and Boksikdo in Gwonsu, Akjang, Euiju, Pummok or Akgipungmul, Gongryeong, and Sangjeon. As for the execution of the dance, it was usually performed in the latter or last part of the banquets and, after the Musin jinchan banquet, it was performed to the music Munyeongjigok (武寧之曲 or, lit., “Military pacification piece”). The number of royal dancers performing the sword dance varied from a maximum of eight or nine down to six, four, or sometimes even two. In April 1902, the Imin-jinyeon recorded eight pairs of dancers performing the gumgi-mu, differing from Dobyeong’s record which described only two or four dancers. The costumes for geomgi-mu consisted of jeollip (戰笠, a war hat), hyeopsu (挾袖, a narrow sleeved upper garment), gweja (掛子, a kind of over vest), dae (帶, sash), hongchosang (紅綃裳 red silk apron-like skirt), and chorokhye (草綠鞋 grass green leather shoes). For the sanhongmo (散紅毛) a red feather or fur decoration hanging at the top of a helmet or military hat, jeollip (戰笠) was used after 1848 and the pointed top part of the hat was rounded. Accessories, such as jeongja, gongjak'u, and sangmo, were attached to the crown of the hat. The line where the hat’s body and brim met was decorated with jingduri. Each side of the “war hat” had artificial amber ornaments hung over the ears with silver hooks, eunyeoungja (銀纓子 silver tassles), and gungcho (宮綃) silk string ties. The red silk skirt was worn outside of the gyeonmagi (upper garment now known as jeogeori) and a brocade indigo blue skirt, and the narrow sleeved hyeopsu and gweja vest was layered on top as extra. Gweja were recorded as a combat uniform in some records, which indicates the two words were interchanged. Dancers wore an indigo blue combat sash around the gweja vest and wore green leather shoes, as well. It has been confirmed through the sources that the red sleeves of the hyeopsu became longer as time went on.