금목서와 은목서 잎 추출물의 화장품 원료로서의 효능 평가
Evaluation of Osmanthus fragrans Leaf Extracts as a Cosmetic Ingredients
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목서(Osmanthus fragrans, 木犀)는 물푸레나무과로 아시아가 원산지로 히말라야 동부에서 중국 남부를 거쳐 멀리 대만과 일본 남부까지 서식한다. 이제까지 금목서(O. fragrans var. auranthiacus Makino)의 꽃 특유의 달콤한 향으로 인해 항산화, 항염, 항멜라닌, 항암 등의 많은 연구가 보고되어졌으나 동일 종에 속하는 은목서(O. fragrans var. latifolius)에 대한 연구가 거의 이루어지지 않아 본 연구에서는 금목서와 은목서 잎을 각각 에탄올과 열수로 추출하여 화장품 원료로서의 가능성을 비교 평가하고자 하였다. 금목서 잎 에탄올추출물 (ME)와 열수추출물 (MD), 은목서 잎 에탄올추출물 (LE)과 열수추출물 (LD)의 DPPH 음이온 라디컬 또는 ABTS 양이온 라디컬 소거 활성은 모든 추출물 농도 의존적으로 나타났으며 LE의 총폴리페놀 함량(90.108±1.624)이 가장 높았다. 각 추출물의 세포독성을 쥐 대식세포인 RAW264.7, 사람의 정상 진피세포인 NHDF와 쥐 피부암세포 B16F10 세포에서 각각 확인한 결과 0.5 mg/mL 농도까지 세포독성은 관찰되지 않았다. 항염 성분으로서의 효능을 평가하기 위해 LPS로 염증을 유발한 RAW264.7 세포에서 각 추출물에 의한 NO, iNOS 및 TNF-α와 IL-6 같은 싸이토카인 분비량을 측정한 결과, LE에 의한 염증 억제가 우수함을 확인하였다. 또한 은목서 잎 추출물이 NHDF 세포에서 MMP-1 단백질 발현 수준 저해와 B16F10 세포에서 멜라닌 생성 감소 및 in vitro tyrosinase 활성 억제를 통해 항노화 기능의 화장품 성분으로서 활용 가능성이 높다고 판단된다.
Abstract
Osmanthus fragrans, the genus Osmanthus in the family of Oleaceae, is distributed in China, Japan and southern area of Korea. Especially, O. fragrans var. auranthiacus Makino(OFM) was reported to contain antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-melanin, and anti-cancer effects. However, there is limited information about the O. fragrans var. latifolius(OFL)'s potential bioactivities. The present study evaluated the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and whitening activities of polar(ethanol and hot-water) extracts from OFM and OFL leaves. All extracts showed 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) anion radical and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)(ABTS) cation radical scavenging activities in a concentration-dependent manner and OFL ethanol extract(LE) exhibited the highest of total polyphenolic contents(90.108±1.624). The significant cytotoxicity was not observed up to a concentration of 0.5 mg/mL in mouse macrophage cells(RAW264.7), normal human dermal fibroblast(NHDF), and mouse melanoma (B16F10) cells. In LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells, LE and OFM ethanol extract(ME) significantly reduced NO production, inducible nitric oxide(iNOS) protein expression and downregulated proinflammatory cytokines such as interleukin(IL)-6 and tumor necrosis factor(TNF)-α. OFL hot-water extract(LD) was also decreased the generation of MMP(matrix metalloproteinase)-1 protein in NHDF cells. In addition, LE inhibited in vitro tyrosinase activity and melanin production induced by α-MSH in B16F10 cells. Taken together, the O. fragrans var. latifolius leaves is expected to have a value as an excellent anti-aging ingredient for functional cosmetics.
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