제례음식의 규범과 토착화- 불천위제례를 중심으로

Abstract

This study extracts a normative model of ancestral ritual food from Garye, which has been used as a manual for ancestral rites ever since the late Goryeo period, and summarizes a naturalized model formed in the process of applying the normative model to the cir- cumstances in Korea. The so-called normative properties of Garye were examined while focusing on ancestral ritual food used during Bulchunwee rites of 100 head families around the country. There are 20 offerings specified in Garye, classified into rice, soup, noodles, rice cake, meats, fishes, vegetables, and fruits. Such classification is followed up to date. On the other hand, naturalization tendencies of ancestral ritual food deviating from Garye appeared because of food culture different from China. First is the change in offerings. For instance, whereas the door is closed and opened during Yusikrye and tea is raised in the Jinda procedure in Garye, tea was replaced by scorched rice soup because tea-tasting is not done in Korea. Second is the number of offerings has increased drastically compared to Garye. In Garye, 24 offerings are arranged, excluding the spoon and chop- sticks, and only eight of 100 head families around the country ac- tually offer 24 kinds or less than that. The range for the number of offerings is from 20 to 63, and the highest ratio of head families offers 27~36 kinds. This tendency is shown especially with pan- cakes, fruits that do not have quantity limits. In particular, some head families arrange up to three-fold fruits compared to Garye. As such, the ancestral ritual food of today has normative prop- erties to faithfully reflect the guidelines of Garye and naturalization properties of Korea. Normative properties are changeable and thus can be naturalized at any time. The naturalization of normative properties is an ongoing process. On the other hand, the natural- ization of ancestral ritual food is centered on elements like removal, change, and creation. In other words, the ritual food of Garye is completely removed, ingredients are changed, or new offerings are created due to food culture different from China. The coexistence of normativity and naturalization in ancestral ritual food indicates the flexible property of ancestral ritual food, which can provide for a meaningful direction when seeking changes in ancestral ritual food.