《源氏物語會圈》을 통해 본 일본 헤이안시대 지배계층의 여자 복식

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of the costumes of the ruling class women of the Heian period by studying the costumes demonstrated in the ,《Won-si-mul -eo-hei-gwon》a picture album of the Heian period. The findings of this study are as follows. The costumes of the Heian period women shown in the 《Won-si-mul -eo-hei-gwon》 include Dang-eui-sang, So-gyu, Se-jang, and O-zo-ga-sa Dang-eui-sang was the most frequently demonstrated in the book. Considering the fact that Dang-eui-sang was a court dress, it can be understood that Dang-eui-sang was widely worn in everyday life in the palace. In order to identify the characteristics of the costumes of the ruling class women of the Heian period, the d costumes were compared to those of the previous period. It was found that the costumes of the Heian period had taken the costumes of the previous period as their prototype but had been changed in various aspects such as the way of wearing them, their form, their color, and their use. The costumes in the Heian period was developed from the costumes of the previous period, which was more focused on Po, Go, and Gun, to a costumes like Dang-eui-sang. Particularly, the costumes in the Heian period became bigger, more varied, and more decorative. This phenomenon can be interpreted that the system of the Dang began to weaken due to a japanization, a new cultural system of Japan in those times. It can also be understood that this japanization phenomenon, which had appeared in the overall culture in Japan including literature, art, and architecture, had strongly influenced the costumes of the Heian period.