일본 나라･헤이안시대의 지배계층 남자복식의 변화와 양상 -조복과 속대를 중심으로-

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to investigate the aspects of the change in Jobok, a type of clothes of the ruling class men, particularly in terms of its names, purposes of wearing, wearing methods, compositions, and attire, by comparing Jobok in the early Nara-Heian period to that of the mid and late Heian period. The findings of the study are the following:First of all, the name of Jobok was renamed as Sokdae. And Jobok came to be worn for the ceremonial purposes and as a result it became to be worn as a formal dress. In terms of its types, Jobok in the early Nara-Heian period was composed of Euigun, Eui, Go, Uio, Dae, Mal, Yi, Do, and Hol. On the other hand, the composition of Sokdae in the mid and late Heian period were increased in its composition; it was composed of Gwan, Po, Banbi, Haseub, Il, Dan, Pyogo, Daegu, Seokdae, Mal, Hwa, Eodae, Taedo, Pyeongseo, and Hol,. Wearing methods of Jobokwere changed to layering other clothes over clothes. In addition, there was a tremendous change particularly in Gwan, Po, Haseub, and Pyogo. The length of clothes, sleeves, and Haseub of Jobok all became longer and its width of Gil and sleeves became wider, which resulted in massive look. Further more, compared to those in the early 10th century, the color and pattern of Jobok in the mid and late 10th century became more varied and decorative. In conclusion, during 8th-12th century, Jobok went through a tremendous change in the aspects of its name, composition, wearing method and purpose of wearing. Jobok in the mid and late Nara-Heian period were more massive, varied, and decorative than that in the early Nara-Heian period.