18세기 창녕조씨 저고리 직물분석

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to understand 18th century women's jeogori fabric trends by examining excavated jeogories from the tomb of Lady Changneong-Jo (1721-1742). Total of 25 jeogories were analyzed and then compared with other commonly used fabrics of the time. All the fabrics of 25 jeogories were silk. For fabric construction, combinations of the three fundamental weaves were utilized. There were total of 42 types of fabric: 23 plain weave fabric, 7 twill fabric, and 12 satin fabric. Of these, 32 were patterned fabric. Plain weave fabrics were used on 14 different jeogories. Out of these, 13 patterned plain weave fabrics were observed. The patterned parts were mostly 3/1 right-handed twill. All the twill fabrics were patterned and were used in 5 jeogories. Ground structure was 3/1 right-handed twill. For the patterned parts, 6 pieces were reversed satin, and one was 1/3 left-handed twill. Satin fabrics were used in 11 jeogories. There were total of 12 different types, all patterned satin fabrics(damask). The utilized ground structures were one of the three types: 5 leaf 2 float, 5 leaf 3 float or 8 leaf 3 float satin weave. All patterned parts were reversed satin. In the final analysis, total of 79 jeogori fabrics(bodice & sleeve) used in 18th century, including the pieces from the Lady Changneong-Jo's tomb were examined. As a result, this study discovered that for 18th Century jeogori fabrics plain weave fabrics were the most frequently used, followed by satin fabrics and twill fabrics.