조선후기 전건(戰巾)의 착용과 제작

Abstract

Court paintings of military soldiers wearing black conical hats with the top folded and draping back from the late Joseon period are quite common. This type of hat has been known as Jeongeon, and was worn by soldiers, but no additional details have been revealed. Recently, however, as similar artifacts among the Korean collections of overseas museums have been discovered and surveyed, there emerges a need to find the proper term for them. Old documents, paintings, museum collections with regard to Jeongeon were thus compared and analyzed in this research. The purpose of this study is to broaden and deepen the understanding of military uniforms by revealing who wore them, how they were worn, as well as the materials and manufacturing methods used to make them. Jeongeon was a hat worn by soldiers, together with Hyeopsu, Gwaeja or Hoeui, and navy Jeondae in the late Joseon dynasty. Originally, it was exclusively produced for and worn by members of the Hullyeondogam. But it gradually came to be worn by soldiers of many other units. Soldiers with Jeongeon are primarily seen in paintings of the 18th and 19th centuries. The method of making Jeongeon was researched through examining historical records and museum collections. First, paper was attached to black fabric, then folded vertically so that the left and right sides overlapped in three layers. The center lines of the back were brought together, and then the upper side was sewn horizontally. The hat was decorated with red rectangles and gold curve lines, and the back was decorated with five gold vertical lines. The structure and characteristics of the artifacts in overseas museum collections are mostly consistent with literature and painting records. This research will contribute to the reproduction of Jeongeon and reenactment events in the future.