15-16세기 朝鮮 交織物 硏究
A Study on The Union Fabric of Choson during 15-16C
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This research examined the usages and representations of union fabric by using Choson Dynasty’s in 15-16C documents and examined the distinct characteristics of each period using excavated artifacts. The results are following;One. Union Fabric is a fabric that consists of two different threads interwoven in each direction; weft & warp . union fabric Danryeong was equipped from 1416 to 1508. Two. Until 1484, 15-16seung(升) silk-linen of union fabric, silk-ramie union fabric were offered to the Emperor of China. Three. After being removed from the list of donation to the palace after 1484, use of 9-12seung(升) union fabric was permitted. Some skilled workers often produced 19seung(升) while some luxury union fabrics such as 24seung(升) were produced at 16th century, during the luxury prohibition period. Four. Number of excavated union fabrics from the 16th century tombs remains relatively low due to repetitive prohibition of union fabric during the 16th century and reduced supply of native fabrics post Japanese Invasions of Korea (1592-1598). Five. Union Fabric was mainly used during the in-between seasons. For instance , Chun-po consisting silk at weft and ramie at warp was dyed with gardenia to show yellowish, was widely used by the upper class in between spring and summer. Six. Improvement in silk production and increased demand on cotton during the 17th-18th century decreased the ramie plant culturists while increasing the population of cotton plant culturists, thus decreasing the union fabric production.
Abstract
This research examined the usages and representations of union fabric by using Choson Dynasty’s in 15-16C documents and examined the distinct characteristics of each period using excavated artifacts. The results are following;One. Union Fabric is a fabric that consists of two different threads interwoven in each direction; weft & warp . union fabric Danryeong was equipped from 1416 to 1508. Two. Until 1484, 15-16seung(升) silk-linen of union fabric, silk-ramie union fabric were offered to the Emperor of China. Three. After being removed from the list of donation to the palace after 1484, use of 9-12seung(升) union fabric was permitted. Some skilled workers often produced 19seung(升) while some luxury union fabrics such as 24seung(升) were produced at 16th century, during the luxury prohibition period. Four. Number of excavated union fabrics from the 16th century tombs remains relatively low due to repetitive prohibition of union fabric during the 16th century and reduced supply of native fabrics post Japanese Invasions of Korea (1592-1598). Five. Union Fabric was mainly used during the in-between seasons. For instance , Chun-po consisting silk at weft and ramie at warp was dyed with gardenia to show yellowish, was widely used by the upper class in between spring and summer. Six. Improvement in silk production and increased demand on cotton during the 17th-18th century decreased the ramie plant culturists while increasing the population of cotton plant culturists, thus decreasing the union fabric production.
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