16~17세기 직물유형과 문양의 배치구도에 관한 연구 -조선시대 출토복식에 나타난 화문직을 중심으로-

Abstract

rics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing thewaving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, tok the majority.And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes.It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patternedplain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Asumed forthe reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern,it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by openorder shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half droppattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.