일본 국립역사민속박물관 소장 16세기 라꾸주우라꾸가이(洛中洛外) 병풍 갑본(甲本) 풍속화의 여자복식 연구

Abstract

Subjects of the study include costumes worn by 291 out of the 1426 women appearing in genre paintings drawn on Rakuchu-rakugaifolding screens dating from the 16th century in the collection of the National Museum of Japanese History. The study analyzed the types ofwomen’s costume appearing in genre paintings drawn on folding screens, compared costume according to the status of the wearer, andexamined the characteristics of headgear, hairstyles and patterns and textile colors in order to discern aspects of the socio-culturalbackground of the time and the transition in the haracteristics of women’s costume in the 16th century. The findings of the study are asfollows. Genre paintings drawn on Rakuchu-rakugai folding screens showed that 262 out of 291 women wore Gosode, the sleeves of whichwere narrow compared to Gosode in the 14th and 15th centuries. Meanwhile, the total length of Gosode varied depending on the status andoccupation of the wearer. In terms of headgear, the highest number of women (102) wore a headgear called Gatsgi, and this was followedin popularity by an Amigasa and a bandana. Looking at hairstyles, it was found that 88 women in the upper class had long hair, whilewomen who were commoners, merchants or laborers mostly had simple hair styles, such as short hair, a beehive or a ponytail. Colors oftextile include white, red, green, brown and black, and they were applied to Gosode, Gatsgi, Amigasa, Ijimegasa and bandana. Patternssuch as plain patterns, water drop patterns and lattice patterns were used as indicators of social status, and it turned out that lattice patternswere used in the 16th century. The appearance of women’s costume in genre paintings provides a valuable resource to help researchersexamine costume in connection to social background and characteristics in the 16th century, and to better understand difference sincostumerelated to social status.