신라 고취대(鼓吹隊) 재현을 위한 복식 연구
A Study on Costume for the Reproduction of Gochuidae in the Silla era
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The study is focused on examining the costume for the reproduction of Gochuidae in the Silla era, and research was conducted on Gochuidae costume before the introduction of costume from the Tang dynasty and during the Unified Silla, and an actual costume was made based on the result. There was no literature and visual material related to Gochuidae prior to the Unified Silla, but a costume worn by a court musician found in a procession in Anak Tomb No. 3 was referenced. Costume on the mural included Heukgeon, Jeogori(jacket), Baji(pants), Hwa (+Banbi), Pyeongsangchaek, Mugwan, Po and Ri. Heukgeon during the Silla era had a high body, and some of them had a stooped end on the sides, and Banbi had a creased decoration at the end of short sleeves. A combination of Pyeongsangchaek, Mugwan and Po did not belong to Silla costume, but records on exchanges between the Three Hans and Han Provinces indicate that they were worn by people. According to The Chronicles of the Three States, Bokdo and Ranpo were worn in the Unified Silla, and the use of various colors and gold decoration on a belt indicate a more ornate costume than those worn by the upper class people. Based on the result of the examination, two styles of clothes were made. They included Geon, Jeogori, Baji (Pants), Hwa and Bokdu, Dalryeongpo, Baji (Pants), Hwa. Bokdu was divided into two types. One had an angle, and the other did not have an angle. Variety was given to Dalryeongpo through the use of Ranpo and Gyoulgwapo. For the purpose of reproduction, colors were distinguished according to the musical instrument used in Gochuidae.
Abstract
The study is focused on examining the costume for the reproduction of Gochuidae in the Silla era, and research was conducted on Gochuidae costume before the introduction of costume from the Tang dynasty and during the Unified Silla, and an actual costume was made based on the result. There was no literature and visual material related to Gochuidae prior to the Unified Silla, but a costume worn by a court musician found in a procession in Anak Tomb No. 3 was referenced. Costume on the mural included Heukgeon, Jeogori(jacket), Baji(pants), Hwa (+Banbi), Pyeongsangchaek, Mugwan, Po and Ri. Heukgeon during the Silla era had a high body, and some of them had a stooped end on the sides, and Banbi had a creased decoration at the end of short sleeves. A combination of Pyeongsangchaek, Mugwan and Po did not belong to Silla costume, but records on exchanges between the Three Hans and Han Provinces indicate that they were worn by people. According to The Chronicles of the Three States, Bokdo and Ranpo were worn in the Unified Silla, and the use of various colors and gold decoration on a belt indicate a more ornate costume than those worn by the upper class people. Based on the result of the examination, two styles of clothes were made. They included Geon, Jeogori, Baji (Pants), Hwa and Bokdu, Dalryeongpo, Baji (Pants), Hwa. Bokdu was divided into two types. One had an angle, and the other did not have an angle. Variety was given to Dalryeongpo through the use of Ranpo and Gyoulgwapo. For the purpose of reproduction, colors were distinguished according to the musical instrument used in Gochuidae.
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