한산모시와 에치고조후ㆍ오지야치지미 제직 비교

Abstract

Mosi is ramie in Korea and jofu is the one in Japan. ‘Weaving of Mosi(fine ramie) in the Hansan region’ is registered as Intangible Cultural Heritage and the techniques preserved. Ojiya-chijimi, Echigo-jofu also same in Japan. Both are UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The materials same but the process and the final result are different. Main difference is that Hansan Mosi weaves no pattern, it’s either natural or white plain weave. Whereas Echigo-jofu mainly weaves stripes or kasuri with delicate patterns, Ojiya-chijimi has overall wrinkle surface due to high twist applied on weft ramie threads. Hansan Mosi focuses on making delicate threads with special tools and all possible methods to present clean and half transparent ramie surface, the technique level required without twist as bast fiber for weaving is high. Due to applied twist, Echigo-jofu·Ojiya-chijimi threads preparation becomes to have silk threads characters after twist process. Both weaving culture face difficulties in transmit the techniques to next generation thus have special programme of weaving, this study includes how they make efforts to preserve and transmit and the main differences between the programmes. Hansan educate overall process from fiber extraction to weaving, focusing on modified modern type loom. Echigo-jofu·Ojiya-chijimi devide process into threads making, Kasuri pattern course and weaving course with traditional loom.