전통 사저교직포의 전승과 현대적 활용

Abstract

Sajeogyojikpo(絲苧交織布) is the Silk-ramie of union fabric woven with silk warp and ramie weft threads. As traditional Sajeogyojikpo is the plain woven fabric that is monochromatic and limited to ivory and light-yellow color, there are limitations to its modern application. Accordingly, the study aims to examine the process of weaving Korean traditional Sajeogyojikpo and manufacturing patterned fabric with hand weaving jacquard loom so that the tradition of Sajeogyojikpo can be continued in a contemporary way. Ramie fabric is easily cut, when it is dry. For this reason, weaving patterns require a hand-weaving. The fabrics were woven with 3 kinds of woven structure, 5-end satin damask, twill damask, and weaved with supplementary wefts. Pattern was used as lotus, and Floral-shaped frame has with dragon and roundel bird pattern. According to the design, holes were made on a pattern card, and threads were mounted on a weaving machine. The pattern card was installed on a cylinder to make preparations. If the warp threads are opened according to a pattern card, a shuttle is inserted to hit the reed. The application of traditional Chunpo is expected to promote the sustained use of Chunpo, in a modern way.