명대(明代) 곤룡포(袞龍袍)와 곤룡문(袞龍紋)의 색(色) 연구

Abstract

A Gunlong-pao means a long dress expressed with a Gunlong pattern, and the Gunlong pattern expresses a 'Gunlong,' a dragon in a winding form as a pattern. Since the Gunlong-pao was worn daily by the emperor, the crown prince, and the prince of the Ming Dynasty, it was most often worn among various types of court fashions. Therefore, even for researchers and the general public, the Gunlong-pao is a very familiar dress. However, it was so familiar that a royal fashion history field did not conduct in-depth research on this dress. Therefore, this study investigated the color of the Gunlong-pao and the Gunlong pattern. As the research data, literature, relics, and paintings were comprehensively utilized. The research results are as follows. First, the shape and type of the Gunlong-pao and Gunlong pattern in the Ming Dynasty diversified from the former to the latter period, and this phenomenon also appeared in their colors. Second, in the early Ming Dynasty, the color of the Gunlong-pao was determined as five colors based on the season, and in a “Yongle 3rd year’s Ding(永樂3年 定)” system, the color of the Gunlong-pao was determined as yellow (emperor) and red (crown prince and below classes) based on the status. However, in the actual use in the mid to late period of the Ming Dynasty, it was confirmed that the emperor's Gunlong-pao had various colors, such as red and reddish-black, in addition to yellow. It was confirmed that the fashion colors of the crown prince or below classes were only the red according to the system. Third, the emperor's "Gunfu", which appeared in the mid to late period, used the five colors, applying the coexistence of five elements to four Gunlong patterns on its upper body. Fourth, the Gunlong-pao gave to the status of the crown prince or lower by the emperor, was classified into three classes based on the color in the late period of the Ming Dynasty.