조선시대 도포(道袍)의 형태(形態)에 관한 연구 -도포유물의 실측도를 중심으로-

Abstract

This paper compared and examined the features of Dopo forms, the representative Po (men's robe) in the Joseon period, described in measured drawings with a focus on the previous research on literature found in tombs. The following are the results of this research. First, the collars are mostly shawl collars or semicircular collars and most inner collars are square-tray-collars. Second, the sleeves were mostly wide. Dopo in the 16th and 17th century had Durisomae (wide sleeves) which became wide in a diagonal direction to the wrist and were long. In the late 18th century, the sleeve became slightly short and wide, which was the Durisomae (wide sleeve) form. Third, there were two kinds of Seop (overlapped columns on the front), double Seop and single Seop. The double Seop changed to a single Seop in the late 18th century. It is estimated that a place where clothing is folded was moved to the center of clothing. Next, Dopo is differentiated from other Po (men's robes) due to the gusset shape. The gusset of Dopo is basically a triangle gusset on the side of the front part of the robe, and the trapezoid gusset and rectangular gusset connected to the triangle gusset. It is bound to the inner side of the back because it is on the front. It is called Eyeopsam or Jeonsam. One part of the clothing depends on whether it is a single layer or a double layer for fixing thw gusset of Dopo on the inner back part. In accordance with the observation of the Dopo shape, the single-layer is made of one piece. It indicates that the Dopo was a new style. The double-layer Dopo is an older style than the single-layer Dopo.