중국 학창(鶴氅)의 형성과 전개 과정에 관한 연구

Abstract

The crane was recognized as a symbol of longevity and a riding bird of immortals in China, and this symbolism developed the crane from a feather-winged robe. Hakchang is a costume that symbolizes the desire to sprout wings and fly to the sky and the symbol of a crane flying freely in the sky, escaping from the world. Hakchang appeared with the establishment of Taoism during the Wei, Jin, Southern, and Northern Dynasties. In the early form, there was a short-length shawl made of bird feathers and worn over the shoulder and a rectangular-shaped shawl made of fabric. Fabric shawl is the original form of Hakchang and was an essential element of the Taoist dress code. During the Tang and Song Dynasties, along with the secularization of Taoism, Hakchang was expanded into three types: rectangular-shaped Hakchang, wide-sleeve Hakchang, and Hakchang with crane patterns, and continued until the Ming Dynasty. Three types of Hakchang were worn as Taoist robes and mourning clothes in the Ming Dynasty. Wide-sleeved Hakchang was widely worn by the public regardless of social status, age, and gender, as it was used interchangeably with the name Changui. Until the middle of the 18th century in the Qing Dynasty, Hakchang was used interchangeably with Changui as a term meaning Dubong. Around the 19th century, Changui changed to a terminology referring to Manchu women's daily overcoats. In the Qing Dynasty, there is no trace that Hakchang was used as a term for Taoist clothing. Hakchang appeared as clothing for the public, showing an aspect that deviated from religiosity. Chinese Hakchang began with 'clothes made of feathers of birds' and gradually expanded their meanings, diversifying their types. The rectangular-shaped Hakchang was inherited from the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern dynasties to the Qing Dynasty, and it solidified its position as a Taoist robe for a long time.