玉所 權燮의 鶴氅衣에 관한 硏究-玉所稿』소재 학창의 관계자료를 대상으로-

Abstract

Okso, Keun Seob(1671~1759) was descended from a noble family of Noreun(老論) and learned from his uncle, Keun Sang-ha who is a disciple of Song Si-Yeol, Kim Chang-hyeub and Kim Chang-heub. His『Oksoko』remains in the form of a transcription or a lithographic printing, and documents on 'Hakchangeui' are recorded in jabeui(雜儀), Euijedogi(衣制圖記), which is a part of it. He left Seoul in 1714, settled in Chungpung, journeyed to many places, including the Hwang river area and Jecheon and led a literary and artistic life as Sadaebu(士大夫), which was written in a collection of his works where the record about 'Hakchangeui', the most suitable clothes for the life of a retired scholar remains today to express one part of his life. This study introduces data about Hakchangeui written in『Oksoko』, pursues the reason why Okso, Keun Seob told about it and intends to embody the figure of Hakchangeui based on the system, measure, material, and sewing method according to the records in a collection. Hakchaneui described in『Oksoko』reveals a structure that is different from old Hakchaneui, showing characteristics like the following. It is a Sadaebu's costume for field amusement in which the length of a former part is longer than that of a later part and the side seam of a garment rips. Black Yeon is attached to the white texture. Yeon widths of Git(collar), Sugu and Gil are varied, respectively. Yeon's figure attached to Gil and Somaejindong is a mountain. Git is Bangryeong and link parts between Git and Gil is connected with Sangchim. This Hakchangeui is considered to play as a gown because it has no string or support to adjust his dress. Especially we can identify that Hwayanggun(華陽巾) was used in this Hakchangeui.