조선시대 공신 초상(功臣肖像)의 관복(제2기) 고찰

Abstract

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals’ portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507),and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryungappeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portraitproduction 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) YooSunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung , in the case of the Samo , the height of the Samo ,which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo . In addition, the pattern was not expressedon the acheongsaek Danryung , Dapho , and Cheolrik . The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green andred, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as ‘in and out wrinkled Mu ’, and the shoes wereexpressed in Baekhwa . Another feature is that the Jeokgae ’s portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time ofappointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk ·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung , the height of the Samo lowered fromthe Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of theSamo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. Thepattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan ’s portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressedin the costume of the Dangsanggwan ’s portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang , the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha ,the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarmentwas distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha . In Danryung and Dapho , the ‘in and out wrinkled Mu ’were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa , and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye atthe time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through therecording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of thereign of King Jungjong. Through the 2nd period of the meritorious vassal’s portrait of Jeokgae , it was confirmedthat the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal’s portrait, and thatthe Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal’s portrait ofJeongguk , the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasangand Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung ’s pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that theexpressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.