조선시대 초상화 상복에 나타난 문양 연구 - 사모와 단령 문양을 중심으로 -

Abstract

The analysis focused on patterns of Samo and Danryung in 108 portraits included in the ordinary dress of the civil and military officials during the Cho Sun Dynasty turned out that Woonmoon was most frepuently used, which was most favored by the Korean people historically and as for Samo, Whamoon and Eoreun pattern were combined and it comes to Danryung, Woonmoon and Chilbo/Palbomoon showed abstracted harmony. Woonmoon, Whamoon and Bomoon are classified respectively by periods between 15th~16th C. 16th~17th C. 18th C. and 19th~post 19th C. and Eoreun pattern(Soopamoon, Neunghyungmoon and Jeommoon), temporarilly showing on folding doubble of the thinner silk was utilized in conducting analysis. The classifications of the pattern of Danryung; Gwonwoonmoon, Yeoeuiwoonmoon and Beewoonmoon associated with the Woonmoons between the 15th and 16th C. primarily appear in Danryung of Cho,Malsaeng, Byun,Soo, and 17 others. Woonmoon associated with the pieces of the clouds during the 17th and 18th C. is observed in the portraits of Papyung-Yoon Family, Kim Seokjoo, Whang, Sin, Lee, Whiji and the tail of Woomnoon comes in the shape of ㄷ mixed with Bomoon and the Woonmoonof the letter, 卍 is also appeared in the later period and we can see in the Woonmoon of Han, Kwanghoi and other 21 of 42 officials. The letter 卍-Woonmoon of Dangryung between 19th~20th C. is associated geometrically and thereafter transformed abstractly with Supamoon, Neunghyungmoon, Jeommoon, Chilbomoon, Jappalbomoon and seen in the portraits of Sin, Hongjoo, Sin, Junghee, Choi, Ikhyun and many others. It is sincerely hoped that identification of the traditional patterns observed in ordinary costumes of civil and military officials in the Chosun Dynasty, which were symbols of social hierarchy, would lead to modernize traditional patterns and make valuable contributions to developing textile designs today.