경성의 명물과 거친 음식의 사이, 설렁탕― 식민지시대 소설을 중심으로

Abstract

This article tried to explain the character of ‘Seoleongtang(설렁탕)’ by paying attention to the novels of the colonial era. In addition, I hope this study will help people get rid of misconceptions and prejudices about Seoleongtang. At that time, media articles introduced Seolleongtang as a specialty of ‘KEIJO(경성)’. In 〈The record of the thousand eyes(천안기)〉, Seoleongtang restaurant appeared in the illustration of the novel. There was also a scene where Seoleongtang was delivered and eaten. In novels such as 〈A day of the novelist Goobo(소설가 구보 씨의 일일)〉 and 〈The peaceful spring day in the world(천하태평춘)〉, Seoleongtang was portrayed as a food to solve a meal. In these novels, the taste of Seoleongtang was foul-smelling. And it was also related to the smell and smoke from the Seoleongtang restaurant. In 〈A Good Day(운수 좋은 날)〉, the wife who had been sick for a month asked Mr. Kim to buy Seoleongtang. The scene of the sick man looking for Seoleongtang also appeared in other novels. In 〈The cartoon of Joseon(조선만화)〉, it was explained that Seoleongtang was a healthy food that could not be compared with other foods. In the novels 〈The hometown(고향)〉 and 〈The gray street(회색가)〉, it was said that the price of Seoleongtang was from 13 jeon to 15 jeon at the time, and it was cheaper than other foods. Considering Lee Gwang-Soo’s novels and newspaper articles at the time, it was in the 1920s and 1930s that Seoleongtang became the representative menu of restaurant. One of the reasons people loved Seoleongtang was that it was delivered. Delivery was by bicycle with the woodblock on his shoulder. It is hard to say that delivery of Seoleongtang was influenced by Chinese food, because the bag of food was used to deliver Chinese food. Traces of carrying the woodblock on the shoulder could be found in 〈The pictorial of custom(風俗畵報)〉 published in 1890. There is no contradiction between the fact that guests loved Seoleongtang and the fact that Seoleongtang was rough food. Seoleongtang had beef bones as its main ingredient, which was cheaply available in Joseon at the time. When the Seolleongtang was cooked seasoning was done only once, and it was simpler than other soups. There are two arguments about the origin of Seoleongtang, both persuasive and problematic. This article thought that the name Seoleongtang came from foul-smelling in boiling and cooking method in which ingredients were boiled at once.