일본 근대의 색채와 복식

Abstract

During Japanese Modern period which accepted and modernized lots of western scientific culture via the Meiji Restoration, color becomes western style, and color name different from before and new tone appeared. Dye and pigment in Japanese Modern period had changed into artificial material, become more brilliant and vivid, and transparent development, so traditional color sense since ancient times was being lost. The symbolic tea color throughout Edo period had been gradually moved away from main fashion, because the introvert․conservative color sense became unmatched with open emotion of Meiji over time. Meanwhile, dark gray color, which was popular since late Edo period, was preferred by people of Meiji, so it has changed into fresh tone and led the fashion. Large store of kimono in the Meiji period had made the anticipated trend color with commercial strategy and named it as fancy, so evoked interest for new color. For kimono in early Meiji period, it had succeeded to the ordinary clothes mode of middle female merchant in late Edo period, and was the decorated kimono by mainly combining technique of yuzen printing and embroidery, patterned clothes and lining pattern into chirimen silk of plain color and plain silk. For middle Meiji period, it is the large part to express vivid pattern using chemical dye, and there is a Japanese method of coloring, called as yuzen without line, and appearance of gatha yuzen in the background. In the kimono of Daisho period, bright hues and patterns influenced by western art Art Nouveau and Art Deco appeared. For children's kimono, it had been adopted new clothe, used in adult kimono, dyeing technique, and design. Regarding main change of costume in this Modern period, it refers to stylization of military gear, improvement of formal dress, and becoming western style of general clothing, etc.