특이 체형의 재킷 패턴 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to allow women with big breast to possibly have the neat fit given wearing one-button tailored collar jacket. The used material was utilized muslin with less flexibility in order to accurately grasp silhouette. An experimental method was selected 2 subjects with big breast. First, the dart amount was adjusted. Second, it increased the dimension of bust measurement in the front panel, and then adjusted finally the B.P point downwardly. First, the front length was adjusted by increasing darts in one-button tailored collar jacket by 1cm with 2.5cm, 3,5cm, 4.5cm. The pattern, which increased the front length by 4.5㎝, in both subjects A and B, was indicated to have the best fit. Second, the widened collar roll line was revised by expanding the bust dimension of the front panel by 0.5cm with 0.5cm, 1㎝, 1,5cm in order to modify the insufficient front-panel bust measurement, as the pattern that increased the front length by 4.5㎝. Out of the corrected experimental clothes, what increased the bust measurement of the front panel by 1.5㎝ in subject A and what increased the bust measurement of the front panel by 1㎝ in subject B were modified the widened level of collar roll line, thereby having shown the stable style. Third, it revised B.P, which was established highly for subjects with big breast, downward to 3㎝ and 4㎝, with the pattern of having increased the front-panel bust measurement by 1.5㎝ as for subject A and with the pattern of having increased the front-panel bust measurement by 1㎝ as for subject B. Both subjects A and B were selected the pattern with a fall by 3㎝ as the final pattern.