3D 모델링 시스템을 활용한 Tailored 재킷 패턴 연구
Tailored Jacket Pattern Study Using 3D Clothing System
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참고문헌
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초록
본 연구의 목적은 20대 표준체형 아바타를 활용하여 맞음새가 좋은 테일러드 칼라 재킷 패턴을 연구하는 것이다. 연구 방법으로는 20대 초반 여성 인체 계측치를 이용하여 유까 패턴 캐드(Yuca pattern cad) 가상 착의 시스템인 ㈜클로버추얼패션(CLO)를 이용하여 아바타에 가상착의 평가를 하였다. 또한 전문가 패널단의 가상 착장 평가 결과를 분석하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 국내 여성복 업체에서 20대 여성을 대상으로 하는 재킷 패턴에 부위별 여유량 적용 차이가 있는 것을확인 할 수 있었다. 업체마다 재킷의 부위별 여유량을 다르게 적용하여 맞음새에서도 재킷의 부위별만족도가 다르게 조사되었다. 20대 대상으로 테일러드 칼라 재킷의 디자인에 따른 치수체계가 필요한것으로 판단된다. 테일러드 칼라 재킷 4곳 업체 패턴 중에서 B업체의 암홀 프린세스 테일러드 재킷의만족도가 높은 것으로 조사되었다. 이와 같은 결과를 적용하여 B업체의 재킷 패턴을 연구패턴으로 선정하였으며, 연구패턴을 수정·보완 하여 개발 패턴으로 제작하였다. 개발패턴 수정·보완 부분은 다음과 같다. 앞허리너비/2는 W/4+1에서 0.5cm 더해주어 W/4+1.5cm로 하였으며, 앞엉덩이너비/2는H/4+1.25cm에서 0.25cm 여유량을 주어 H/4+1.5cm로 설정하였다. 진동길이는 38.4cm에서 39.4cm 로 1cm 늘려주었으며, 앞진동깊이와 뒤진동깊이를 각각 0.5cm 더 늘려주었다. 연구패턴을 수정·보완한 개발 패턴을 2차 착의평가 실시한 결과 맞음새의 문제점이 보완되어 개발패턴이 좋은 평가를 받았다. 이와 같은 자료는 20대 타켓의 여성복업체에서 활용도가 높을 것이라고 기대된다. 또한 의류업체에서 패턴 제작 후 아바타에 가상착의 피팅 하고 있는 추세로 교육현장에서 이보다 앞서 나가 수 있도록 3D를 활용한 샘플제작 및 피팅 연구가 지속적으로 필요하다고 판단된다.
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to study a tailored collar jacket pattern with a good fit using a standard body type avatar of people in their 20s. The research method was to use anthropometric measurements of women in their early 20s to create Yuca pattern CAD. (Yuca pattern CAD) Virtual dressing on the avatar was evaluated using CLO Virtual Fashion Co., Ltd. (CLO), a virtual dressing system. In addition, the results of the virtual dressing evaluation by a panel of experts were analyzed, and the research results are as follows. A domestic women's clothing company was able to confirm that there were differences in the application of allowances for each part of the jacket pattern targeting women in their 20s. Each company applied different allowances to each part of the jacket, and the satisfaction level for each part of the jacket was found to vary in terms of fit. It is judged that a size system according to the design of a tailored collar jacket is necessary for those in their 20s. Among the tailored collar jacket patterns from four companies, the armhole princess tailored jacket from company B was found to have a high level of satisfaction. By applying these results, Company B's jacket pattern was selected as a research pattern, and the research pattern was modified and supplemented to create a development pattern. The development pattern modifications and supplements are as follows. Front waist width/2 was made by adding 0.5cm from W/4+1 to become W/4+1.5cm, and front hip width/2 was made by adding 0.25cm to H/4+1.25cm to become H/4+1.5cm. set. The vibration length was increased by 1cm from 38.4cm to 39.4cm, and the front and rear vibration depths were each increased by 0.5cm. As a result of conducting a second wear evaluation of the development pattern that revised and supplemented the research pattern, the development pattern received a good evaluation as the fit problems were corrected. It is expected that such data will be of great use to women's clothing companies targeting people in their 20s.
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