여성복 테일러드 재킷의 칼라제작요인에 관한 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.