정장용 니트 재킷의 기본 패턴에 관한 연구 - 중년 여성을 중심으로 -

Abstract

This study aims to propose the method of designing patterns of a knit jacket which ensures the changing form of middle-aged women. As a result of this study, following conclusions were drawn. In respect of the basic pattern of a formal knit jacket, the author made the total width and margin smaller than those of a woven jacket, and expecting that the shoulder length of a knit will be extended owing to the weight of a knit when hang a knit on a clothes rack, reduced the length of the shoulder. In addition, in view of the drooping length due to the weight, the total length of the jacket and sleeve was amended. I solved that the half of knit jacket’breast dart is handled by Rolling up quantity(ease-in) of the side line, and that the other half is holded up vertically on the side neck point for the front-length’supplement. So, I solved front-hanging down quantity which occurs due to the breast of women, and the feeling of solidity of chest region to be handled by Rolling up quantity was stressed by ironing. The back size is usually reduced half as much as the front size, and in case of knit jacket, it is normal to cut out by one piece without cutting the central back line. The reason is that it can stress a sense of inherent texture of knit and can solve the surplus clothe necessary for activity due to the elasticity of knit. Accordingly, compared with woven jacket, the front size was reduced by 0.6cm and the back size by 1.2cm, so that the gap between the front and back size may be about 1.2cm. Compared with woven jacket, in case of knit jacket, the total size was reduced, and the length of shoulder was reduced by 2cm compared with the length of shoulder. Also, instead of making the curve of the side line gently, the dart quantity was made longer by 0.7cm.