힙 허거(hip-hugger)형 타이트 스커트 및 라운드 벨트 패턴 제도법 개발

Abstract

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points,namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen,and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1,F4=2.5×F2+0.9, F5=0.9×F4+1.0, F6=0.3×F4+0.4, B1=0.9×B8+2.3, B4=2.1×B2+1.3, B5=0.9×B4+3.5, and B6=0.3×B4+0.4.