현대패션비평에 관한 이론적 재고
A Theoretical Reconsideration of Contemporary Fashion Criticism
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The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest adirection for fashion criticism in aestheticûcultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticismand fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism isdefined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aestheticanalysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combinesFeldman’s and Carney’s models with Crane & Bovone’s and Entwistle’s sociological studies for aesthetic and culturalperspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows ‘Description’-‘Descriptive formative features’, ‘Analysis’-‘Locatethe style’ and ‘Aesthetic value’, ‘Interpretation’- ‘Interpretation of the fashion object’ and ‘Socio-cultural interpretation’,‘Judgment’-‘Critical judgment’. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes ‘Socio-cultural interpretation’ of the6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashionsystem, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of thefashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts,discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of thecommunication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolicvalues to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest adirection for fashion criticism in aestheticûcultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticismand fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism isdefined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aestheticanalysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combinesFeldman’s and Carney’s models with Crane & Bovone’s and Entwistle’s sociological studies for aesthetic and culturalperspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows ‘Description’-‘Descriptive formative features’, ‘Analysis’-‘Locatethe style’ and ‘Aesthetic value’, ‘Interpretation’- ‘Interpretation of the fashion object’ and ‘Socio-cultural interpretation’,‘Judgment’-‘Critical judgment’. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes ‘Socio-cultural interpretation’ of the6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashionsystem, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of thefashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts,discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of thecommunication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolicvalues to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.
참고문헌 (30)
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