복식에 나타난 남근 강조의 조형적 특성과 상징적 의미- 코드피스를 중심으로 -
A Study on Formative Characteristics and Symbolic Meanings of Emphasizing Phallus in Costume - Focusing on Codpiece -
0
조회
0
다운로드
0
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such ascodpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it couldbe refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from variousangles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis ofphallus’ appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallustended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggeratedor expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context throughhistory. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern societyand turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashionexpression.
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such ascodpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it couldbe refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from variousangles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis ofphallus’ appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallustended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggeratedor expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context throughhistory. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern societyand turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashionexpression.
참고문헌 (33)
- "lexander McQueen" (2009)[URL]
- Anne Hollander, "Sex and suits" (1995), Kodansha America, INC
- "Blackie Lawless, WASP"[URL]
- "John Galliano Collection Review" (2007)[URL]
- "Alexander McQueen Collection Review" (2009)[URL]
- "John Galliano Collection Review" (2011)[URL]
- "Versace Collection Review" (2014)[URL]
- "Codpiece"[URL]
- Dictionary compilation of Fashion Professional Resources Committee, "Fashion professional resources dictionary" (2005), Korea dictionary research company
- "Henry XIII"[URL]
- "John Galliano" (2008)[URL]
- "John Galliano" (2011)[URL]
- Jung, H. S., "A history of fashion" (2000), Kyomunsa
- Jung, W. J., "The influence that the costume style of ancient crete had on the western costume", Journal of Science Education, 16, pp.105~119 (1996)
- Kim, M. J., "Western fashion multi-contents" (2010), Kyomunsa
- "Koteka"[URL]
- Lee, D. Y., "A study of occurrence and materiality in the men's trousers", 석사, pp.2002
- Lee, I. J., "Psychology of dress" (2001), Kyomunsa
- Lee, K. H., "Fashion design and sensibility" (2012), Kyungchoonsa
- Lee, M. S., "Transactions : Patriarchism, feminism, post-modern femi nism and masculinity in men`s fashion", Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(2), pp.470~481 (2001)
- Lüttenberg, T., "The cod-piece—A renaissance fashion between sign and artefact", The Medieval History Journal, 8, pp.49~81 (2005)
- "Marilyn Manson"[URL]
- "Moncler Gamme Bleu" (2012)[URL]
- Murphy, C., "Clothing or decoration: Exploring the penis sheath of papua new guinea", Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, pp.1~5 (2012)
- "Koteka! size is not a sign of status" (2003)[URL]
- Reed, C. S., "The codpiece: social fashion or medical need?", Internal Medicine Journal, 34, pp.684~686 (2004)
- "Moncler Gamme Bleu Collection Review" (2011)[URL]
- Tetart-Vittu. F., "The Complete Costume History" (2006), Taschen
- "Thome Browne" (2008)[URL]
- "Versace" (2014)[URL]
- Viacary, G. Q., "Visual art as social data: The renaissance codpiece", Cultural Anthropology, 4(1), pp.3~25 (1989)
- "The return of rough men" (2011)[URL]
- Yoon, J. S., "A study on the analytic and synthetic structures of costume in Renaissance", Academic Journal of Honam University, 17(2), pp.799~821 (1996)
