크리티컬 패션에 관한 고찰
What is Critical Fashion?
1
조회
0
다운로드
5
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers’ socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.
Abstract
This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers’ socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.
참고문헌 (70)
- Bishop, C., "Participation and spectacle : Where are we now?" (2012), The MIT Press
- Black, S., "The Handbook of fashion studies" (2013), Bloomsbury
- COMME des GARҪONS : Art of the In-Between, "REIKAWAKUBO", pp.2017, Bolton, A.
- Bourriaud, N., "The radicant" (2009), Denoel
- Bourriaud, N., "Relational aesthetics" (2011), Mijinsa
- Brüderlin, M., "(Kunstmuseum Wolfsburg)Art & fashion : Between skin and clothing" (2011), Kerber Verlag
- Bruggeman, D., "Long live the (im)material: Concept and materiality in Viktor & Rolf’s fashion", International Journal of Fashion Studies, 3(1), pp.7~26 (2016)[DOI]
- Brand, J., "Fashion and imagination" (2009), ArtEZ Press
- Brand, J., "The power of fashion : On design and meaning" (2008), ArtEZ Press
- Buxbaum, G., "Icons of fashion" (1999), Prestel
- Cho, K. H., "Dress dictionary" (1995), Gyeongchunsa
- 조사라, "1990년대 이후 현대미술에 나타난 참여예술 비평 연구", 감성연구, (15), pp.267~287 (2017), 호남학연구원[DOI]
- Choi, C., "20th Century cultural map" (2006), Ahngraphics
- 최경희, "현대패션비평에 관한 이론적 재고", 한국의류산업학회지, 16(1), pp.66~78 (2014), 한국의류산업학회
- "Critical art. Selected issues" (2008)[URL]
- Choi, Y. M., "A new perspective on style and its change in the historical Met-hodology on dress: Selected surrealism of dress", master’s, pp.1991
- 정연심, "포스트-미디엄과 포스트프로덕션: 포스트모더니즘 이후 현대미술의 ‘동시대성(contemporaneity)’", 미술이론과 현장, (14), pp.187~215 (2012), 한국미술이론학회
- Crane, D., "The transformation of the Avant-Garde: The New York art world 1940-1985" (2012), Bookkorea
- Crane, D., "Fashion and Its social agendas: Class, gender, and identity in clothing" (2004), Hangilsa
- Dunne, A., "Hertzian tales : Electronic products, aesthetic experience and critical design" (1999), The MIT Press
- Elinor, R. N., "The relationship of fashion in women’s dress selected aspects of social change from 1850-1959", doctoral, pp.1962
- Evans, C., "Women & fashion : A lew LOOK" (1989), WIPIFO
- Evans, C., "Fashion at the edge : Spectacle, modernity and deathliness" (2003), Yale University Press
- Evans, C., "The golden dustman: a critical evaluation of the work of Martin Margiela and a review of Martin Margiela exhibition(9", 4, The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, pp.1998, 2(1)[DOI]
- Geczy, A., "Critical fashion practice : From westwood to van Beirendonck" (2017), Bloomsbury
- Geczy, A., "Fashion and art" (2012), Berg
- Geczy, A., "Fashionable art" (2015), Bloomsbury
- Griffin, T., "Contemporary art- 1989 to the present" (2015), Yekyong
- Han, H. J., "A study on the expression of the conceptual art in modern art", master’s, pp.2005
- Huh, G. Y., "A study on the fashion presentation", master’s, pp.2011
- 장애란, "Hussein Chalayan의 실험적 디자인", 복식, 52(5), pp.91~107 (2002), 한국복식학회
- Jo, E. A., "Characteristics of Post Soviet in fashion designer Demna Gavasalia’s works", master’s, pp.2016
- Kawamura, Y., "The Japanese revolution in Paris fashion" (2004), Berg
- Khan, N., "Fashion cultures : Theories, explorations and analysis" (2000), Routledge
- 김종기, "21세기 서양미학의 동향과 전망을 위한 시론 3 -니콜라 부리오의 얼터모더니즘(Altermodernism)에 대한 비판적 독해: 얼터모더니즘은 포스트모더니즘 '이후'의 대안인가?", 현대미술학 논문집, 21(1), pp.151~193 (2017), 현대미술학회
- Kim, H., "Meta stable" (2014), Amado Art Space
- Kim, H. S., "A study on roles that artists play in contemporary art", master’s, pp.2009
- Kim, R. O., "A study on the expressive characteristics of conceptual art in fashion design: With a focus on the works of Hussein Chalayan and martin Margiela", master’s, pp.2012
- Kim, S. A., "A study of Nicolas Bourriaud’s art theories", master’s, pp.2015
- Kim, S. B., "A study on the theoretical foundation of fashion criticism", Hansung University, 22(1), pp.207~224 (1998)
- 김선영, "Vetements 패션 컬렉션 분석과 내적 의미 -2014 F", W~2016 F, 한국디자인문화학회지, pp.2016, 22(3)[DOI]
- 김기수, "랑시에르의 ‘비판적 예술’에 관하여", 철학논총, 83(1), pp.1~31 (2016), 새한철학회
- Kim, S. W., "A study on social criticism of activism expressing in postmodern art", master’s, pp.2016
- Koda, H., "Extreme beauty : The body transformed" (2004), The Metropolitan Museum of Art
- Koh, Y. R., "A study on the fashion criticism and psychoanalysis: focused on fashion photography", master’s, pp.2003
- 권자영, "컨셉추얼 아트의 조형적 특징이 반영된 현대패션에 관한 연구", 복식, 57(7), pp.70~83 (2007), 한국복식학회
- Kwon, J. Y., "A study on the conceptual fashion", doctoral, pp.2008
- 이상훈, "사회 참여적 메시지가 강조된 비평적 디자인의 표현 유형과 확장적 속성 연구", 기초조형학연구, 17(6), pp.397~408 (2016), 한국기초조형학회
- Lipovetsky, G., "The empire of fashion: Dressing modern democracy" (1994), Princeton University Press
- Marilyn, J. H., "The second skin" (1975), Houghton Mifflin
- Mary, E. R., "Dress, adornment, and the social order. New" (1965), John Wiley & Sons
- Matei, C., "Five face of modernity" (1993), Visual and language
- Oh, B. N., "Trend of contemporary art" (1987), Mijinsa
- Park, S. S., "Postmodern art and philosophy" (1992), Yeoleumsa
- Ranciére. J., "Aesthetics and Its discontent(H. I. Joo, Trans. )" (2008), human love
- Robert, C. M., "Art into ideas: Essays on conceptual art" (2007), Cambridge
- Graham H. Roberts, "Leader of the Gang: Gosha Rubchinskiy and the Death of the Catwalk", Fashion Theory, 21(6), pp.689~707 (2017), Informa UK Limited[DOI]
- Roh, J. S., "A study on avant-garde fashion", doctoral, pp.1994
- Ryszard, W. K., "Artyści pod pręgierz, krytycy sztuki do kliniki psychiatrycznej, czyli najnowsze dyskusje wokół sztuki krytycznej w Polsce", EXIT. Nowa sztuka w Polsce, 4(40), pp.2074~2081 (1999)
- Seo, D. J., "사회적인 전환 이후의 미술: 미적인 것과 정 치적인 것의 불가능한 조우", 눈, (5) (2013), (재)광주비엔날레
- Shinkle, E., "The feminine awkward: graceless bodies and the performance of femininity in fashion photographs", Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress Body & Culture, 21(2), pp.201~217 (2017)[DOI]
- "Our twisted hero" (2015)[URL]
- Stallabrass, J., "High art lite: British art in the 1990s" (1999), Verso
- Susan, W., "Fashion show : Paris style" (2006), MFA
- Teunissen, J., "The future of fashion is now : Dutch exhibition catalogue", Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, ~ (2014)
- Vänskä, A., "Fashion curating : Critical practice in the museum and beyond" (2018), Bloomsbury Academic
- Wladislaw, T., "History of six ideas an essay in aesthetics" (1993), Theorie und Praxis
- Wilson, E., "Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity" (1985), Virago Press
- 임은혁, "현대 패션에 표현된 안티포름의 영향 - 물질성을 중심으로 -", 복식, 63(4), pp.1~16 (2013), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- Yoo, Y. S., "A study on establishing concept of conceptual design", doctoral, pp.2008
