17·18세기 조선시대의 사회현상과 복식변화

Abstract

Dress and its ornaments mean the result of social-cultural phenomena and its change represents the nature of each time. Social circumstances, political-economic reform, the formation of factions, the change of social hierarchy, spread of manufacturing and the psychological elements reflecting various cultural fluctuations in society shapes the new style of fashion in dress. The Chosun Dynasty tried to restrict the change of dress and its ornaments ascribed to social and cultural change, by exalting the thrifty spirit against the mood of extravagancy, enlightening people on the establishment of hierarchy thorough the limitation on costumes and the control of desire. The chaos of hierarchy and the development of agricultural technique made middle class and peasants with wealth rise into higher social rankings. Affluent goods imported from China prepared for a condition to foster the spread of extravagancy. Further, the artistic sense expressed through genre paintings and literature popular at that time caused women to imitate them, which resulted in upheaval in dress and its ornaments. Concrete changes were as follows. First, short Cheogori(赤古里) and lengthy and plump Chima(赤亇) described in genre paintings and literature works gave a significant change to the artistic consciousness of that era, which is wholly reflected in dress and its ornaments. Second, Symbolic meaning was granted to a design of ornaments. It had been changed into realistic designs such as Mokdanmun(牧丹紋) meaning a life in wealth and honour, grape Dongjamun(童子紋) signifying productivity and Kilsangumun. Third, not a color concept from class consciousness but the harmony accomplished thorough the meeting of a colour and other colour makes changing social phenomena expressed, allowing the comparison of complementary color to be harmonized with liveliness and vitality.