19세기 이후 여자 저고리 형태에 관한 실증적 연구

Abstract

This study was to examine the change in the shape and was to analyze the characteristics of the Jeogori according to the seven historical periods from 1864, the end of the Yi Dynasty to 1999, the end of the 20th century. The Jeogori samples were collected from those of between 1864 and 1999. Jeogori samples were 687 in total. 12 items of measurement were measured. The data were analyzed by ANOVA and Duncan’s multiple range test as post hocand Pearson’s correlation using the SPSS Windows 12. statistical package. The summary of this study is as follows: 1. There were mush change in the Jeogori measurements depending on the historical periods. Especially, the F-test on the length items such as the length of the back, the length of the front, the length of the left fly front strap, and the length of the left front collar were significantly different on the level P< 0.001 among the seven periods 2. The correlation coefficients of the length of the back and the length of the front were more than 0.90 and were highly correlated. The correlation coefficient between the length of the back and the length of the left fly front strap was 0.92 and highly correlated. In addition, it was observed that the armhole became larger, while the sleeve width became wider and the length of the collar became longer. 3. Analyzing the characteristics of Jeogori for each period, 1) The Jeogori in the end of the Yi Dynasty (1864~1910) had the shortest length and tight width with a very short length under the armhole. 2) The characteristics of the Jeogori in the period of Japan’s colonial rule (1910~1945) were that the Jeogori length was so long that it almost reached to the waist, and the length under the armhole was also long with a wider collar. 3) The Jeogori in the period of recovery afterliberation(1946~1960) had a length reaching down to the waist, and the length under the armhole was also long with a wider width. 4) The characteristics of the Jeogori in the period of industrialization were that the length of Jeogori began to be shorter than that of the period of recovery after liberation(1946~1960), and its width became the widest. 5) The characteristics of the Jeogori in the period of advanced industrialization were that the length of the Jeogori was very short and its width was the narrowest since the end of the Yi Dynasty so that it was tight to the body, and the sleeve width was wide so that the inseam the of sleeve was clearly curved. 6) To sum up the characteristics of the Jeogori in the period of economic stabilization,the Jeogori length became slightly longer, and the width also became a little wider than that in the period of advanced industrialization. 7) The characteristics of the Jeogori in the period of globalization were that the Jeogori length became slightly shorter with a narrower width than that in the period of economic stabilization.