조선말기 폐백복식(幣帛服飾)에 관한 연구-현구고례(見舅姑禮)를 중심으로-

Abstract

The study is about the dresses of the bride and the bridegroom at hyeongugorye 見舅姑禮 which is the origin of today's pyebaek 幣帛 - a ceremony that the bride pays her respects with prepared gifts to the elders of the bridegroom's family for the first time, in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of wedding dress for hyeongugorye during the late Joseon Dynasty are as follows.1. In the late Joseon Dynasty, hyeongugorye was a ritual only for the bride different from today’s pyebaek. The bridegroom was not present at hyeongugorye or just stood beside the bride. At that time, the bridegroom wore po 袍 - ceremonial overcoat for men on baji-jeogori.2. According to rite manuals from the Joseon Dynasty, the bride should have ceremonial dress of different standing at daerye 大禮 - equivalent to today's wedding ceremony and hyeongugorye. Sometimes in customary wedding in Joseon, however, both the two ceremonies used ceremonial dress of high standing, and depending on the families’ circumstances3. Even if ordinary dress chima-jeogori was used in hyeongugorye instead of wonsam 圓衫 or hwarot, the ceremonial hat like a jokduri or hwagwan 花冠 was indispensable as the symbol of the bride.These days, after having a Western-style wedding ceremony, the bride and bridegroom have pyebaek in rented traditional wedding dress such as dallyeong 團領, hwarot and wonsam. However, because pyebaek is 'a ceremony to pay respects to the parents-in-law for the first time', fittingly to the current situation, it is considered acceptable to hold pyebaek in traditional dress, namely, po over baji-jeogori for the bridegroom and dangui 唐衣 over chima-jeogori and a ceremonial hat on the head for the bride. Also, such dress style for pyebaek is expected to be usable as formal and elegant traditional dress even after the wedding.