唐代의 胡服과 服妖

Abstract

The wearing of the ‘Hufu(胡服)’ is expressed as a sign or symbol of political and social disturbance and destruction of the country in the discussion papers that run through the first chapters of 『Jiutangshu(舊唐書)』, ‘Yufuzhi(輿服志)’ and 『Xintangshu(新唐書)』 ‘Chefuzhi(車服志)’. For this reason, in previous studies, the wearing of hufu was usually identified as the cause of political and social chaos and the collapse of Tang Dynasty. However, in 『Jiutangshu』 and 『Xintangshu』 ‘Wuxingzhi(五行志)’, the ‘Fuyao(服妖)’, that is, the disorder of clothes, does not only refer to the wearing of hufu. Nevertheless, hufu was recorded as the cause of the disturbance of the political and social order and the ruin of the country, and that view has continued. In this paper, by analyzing the contents of ‘Yufuzhi’, ‘Chefuzhi’ and ‘Wuxingzhi’ in 『Jiutangshu』 and 『Xintangshu』, ‘Fuyao’ refers to various phenomena as well as wearing hufu, wanted to clarify. It was confirmed that ‘Fuyao’ is actually a violation of the system or laws rather than wearing a hufu, to change the existing clothing system, to wear men's and women's clothing without distinction, and to enjoy splendid and luxurious clothing. Wearing of hufu was recorded as a sign or cause of the exile of the Tang Dynasty, and the reason why they were criticized was that the cause of a coup such as the Anshi(安史) Rebellion was found in the influx of hufu, and the cause of the decline of the national government at the end of the Tang Dynasty was found in the fashion of hufeng. This can be seen from the fact that the number of records on fuyao increased significantly in the 『Xintangshu』 compared to that of the 『Jiutangshu』, and also in the fact that the number of cases related to hufu also increased. Rather, it seems that 『Jiutangshu』, ‘Yufuzhi’ and 『Xintangshu』 and ‘Chefuzhi’ criticized the hufu, but praised its convenience in the details, and ‘Wuxingzhi’, talking about fuyao, rather than hufu, it was a disorder of the dress system. Luxury and men's clothing were mentioned more. In the end, in fuyao in ‘Wuxingzhi’, the problem was not the suit itself, but the disorder, luxury, and men’s clothing as the problem. Therefore, hufu could still flow in, use, and become popular even after time passed. Although there are aspects of clothing that reflect ideology and ideology, it is probably because practicality and convenience were prioritized above all else.